Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 37.22396, -112.9985
FA: James Barrow & Connor Baty; FFA: Connor Baty December 4, 2022
Page Views: 477 total · 12/month
Shared By: James Barrow on Dec 8, 2022
Admins: Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 5.10, 18m

Fist and hands to tight corner or loose flake off left.  Two-bolt anchors, double quick links.

Pitch 2 5.11+, 27m

Tight hands and lie backing on slightly overhung with delicate feet. Large loose wedged flake near beginning of pitch (steer clear). Two-bolt anchor with chains. 

Pitch 3, 5.9+, 25m

Fists up slightly loose terrain passed a bulge to underside of roof. Two-bolt anchors

Pitch 4 5.12+, 28m - The Temple Eave

Traverse on horizontal discontinuous roof crack smearing on blank face. Two-bolt anchors with chains.

Pitch 5 5.10, 50 m

5.8 chimney leads to flared hands that gradually widens to 3 then tightens to 1's. Two-bolt anchors with chains.

Move Belay and/or Bivy ledge

Move belay over hill consisting of a handful of 3rd and 4th class scrambling over rocks with loosely placed cairns and a short bushwhack to base of pitch 6. You'll know you're at the base when you can look into a small cave from the belay.

Pitch 6 5.11+ Pg-13, 50m - The Sand Gutter

Short chimney into traversing flared hands leads to ever tightening finger seam blowing out the sand for finger placements. This leads into easier terrain onto loose sandy blocks. A bolt protects a fragile thin seam around right side of roof into chimney. Chimney leads to ledge and 15ft traverse across ledge to two-bolt anchors with chains.

Pitch 7 5.11- Pg-13, 35 meters 

5.11 fingers with shallow gear off belay eases into bushy awkward 5.10 to two-bolt anchors with chains.

Pitch 8 4th class, 80m

The last few hundred feet should never exceed 4th class to the top of the sub-peak of the Meridian subpeak. 

This route can also be aided at 5.9 C2

Descent:

Rappels go in this order:

Top P7 to top of P6, 35m 

P6 to bivy ledge, 35m

P5 to top of P4, 50m (offsets the knots, if possible, to help heavy rope drag on pull)

Top P4 to Top of P2, 40m 

P2 to ground, 45m

Location Suggest change

Walk down the maintenance road behind the Zion Museum. Once you pass an old porta-potty, pass a concrete drainage and take a right near a large boulder towards the Springdale band and start hoofing up the hill. Shortly up the hill you should begin seeing cairns. Follow the cairns to break through the first band. The cairns are very well built and should be easy to follow up to the base off the mountain. Follow the base of the mountain until you can bear right up the hill to break the secondary band. Once you have broken the secondary band, go rightwards until you reach the start of the climb.  

Coordinates: 37°13'11.29"N, -112°59'55.04"W

Protection Suggest change

Doubles .2" to 4"

One 6" for P4, but unnecessary afterwards.

Rack of offset nuts.

Two 60m ropes

Photos

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