| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 37.22396, -112.9985 |
| FA: | James Barrow & Connor Baty; FFA: Connor Baty December 4, 2022 |
| Page Views: | 477 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | James Barrow on Dec 8, 2022 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
Pitch 1 5.10, 18m
Fist and hands to tight corner or loose flake off left. Two-bolt anchors, double quick links.
Pitch 2 5.11+, 27m
Tight hands and lie backing on slightly overhung with delicate feet. Large loose wedged flake near beginning of pitch (steer clear). Two-bolt anchor with chains.
Pitch 3, 5.9+, 25m
Fists up slightly loose terrain passed a bulge to underside of roof. Two-bolt anchors
Pitch 4 5.12+, 28m - The Temple Eave
Traverse on horizontal discontinuous roof crack smearing on blank face. Two-bolt anchors with chains.
Pitch 5 5.10, 50 m
5.8 chimney leads to flared hands that gradually widens to 3 then tightens to 1's. Two-bolt anchors with chains.
Move Belay and/or Bivy ledge
Move belay over hill consisting of a handful of 3rd and 4th class scrambling over rocks with loosely placed cairns and a short bushwhack to base of pitch 6. You'll know you're at the base when you can look into a small cave from the belay.
Pitch 6 5.11+ Pg-13, 50m - The Sand Gutter
Short chimney into traversing flared hands leads to ever tightening finger seam blowing out the sand for finger placements. This leads into easier terrain onto loose sandy blocks. A bolt protects a fragile thin seam around right side of roof into chimney. Chimney leads to ledge and 15ft traverse across ledge to two-bolt anchors with chains.
Pitch 7 5.11- Pg-13, 35 meters
5.11 fingers with shallow gear off belay eases into bushy awkward 5.10 to two-bolt anchors with chains.
Pitch 8 4th class, 80m
The last few hundred feet should never exceed 4th class to the top of the sub-peak of the Meridian subpeak.
This route can also be aided at 5.9 C2
Descent:
Rappels go in this order:
Top P7 to top of P6, 35m
P6 to bivy ledge, 35m
P5 to top of P4, 50m (offsets the knots, if possible, to help heavy rope drag on pull)
Top P4 to Top of P2, 40m
P2 to ground, 45m
Location
Walk down the maintenance road behind the Zion Museum. Once you pass an old porta-potty, pass a concrete drainage and take a right near a large boulder towards the Springdale band and start hoofing up the hill. Shortly up the hill you should begin seeing cairns. Follow the cairns to break through the first band. The cairns are very well built and should be easy to follow up to the base off the mountain. Follow the base of the mountain until you can bear right up the hill to break the secondary band. Once you have broken the secondary band, go rightwards until you reach the start of the climb.
Coordinates: 37°13'11.29"N, -112°59'55.04"W



0 Comments