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Routes in Sub Peak of Meridian Tower

Omen, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Caleb Padgett & Mike Banach Feb 2009
Page Views: 1,127 total · 33/month
Shared By: Caleb Padgett on Apr 23, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Omen is a quality 6 pitch route that climbs varied crack systems. The left facing corner/handcrack on pitch 2 is visible from the ground.

P1: Climb the short corner to a ledge and single bolt belay. 50ft

P2: One of the best handcrack pitches in the park. This starts with tight hands and then goes to hands in a corner forever. Bolted belay. 5.10+ 190ft

P3: Climb up through the short chimney then trend left up ledges to a bolted belay. 5.8 140ft. Rappel off the left of the tower 50 ft to the start of P4.

P4: Climb up past a bolt into the perfect laser cut fingercrack. Stem and layback up the corner until the crack widens . Build a gear belay at the base of the wide corner above. 11b 110ft

P5: Climb up the flaring corner and through a pod above. The pod can be hard to negotiate with a helmet on. The pitch ends on a ledge with two bolts. 5.10+ 110ft.

P6: There are enticing cracks above the belay ledge but the route steps left around the corner and continues past two fixed pins and up the varnished corner to the top. 5.11a 190ft

Descent: Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes.

Location

Located on the west facing buttress on the subpeak of Meridian Tower. Once the approach trail meets the rock traverse left 300 feet to the base of the route. The handcrack on pitch two is easy to spot.

Protection

3x cams green alien to #4 Camalot. 1x#5 Camalot. A few extra #2 Camalots for pitch 2, and yellow aliens for P4.
3X #4 is excessive. We thought one would probably be sufficient. Skip the #5 too. 2nd FP on P6 is pretty manky and protects the 5.11a move. Great route, worth the walk. Mar 14, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
did he free the rappell? 5.8 in the gunks Feb 4, 2017
Caleb Padgett
Rockville, utah
 
Caleb Padgett   Rockville, utah
 
Actually Zach Lee got the FFA in 2009 or 2010 with confirmed free ascents by a handful of others over the years. Not to rain on your parade or anything but want to give the local boys credit. Feb 3, 2017
FFA- Matt V.B 2013 Feb 3, 2017
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
I recommend bringing extra yellow aliens. I brought only 3 or 4 and wanted another couple - 6 in this size wouldn't be excessive. I ended up linking P4 and P5 making for a super rad pitch (200' - a 60m works if the belayer breaks down the anchor and moves forward). We didn't take a #5 and were fine. On the raps, I had a difficult time hitting the anchors on top of P3. I ended up tying a massive knot with the remainder of the ropes and throwing it in the crack and pulling myself in - I recommend setting an auto-block on this rap. Great route! May 3, 2015

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