| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2260 ft (685 m), 11 pitches, Grade VI |
| GPS: | 38.57939, -107.70252 |
| FA: | Stuckey, Walz, Mathis, Oct. 2021 |
| Page Views: | 516 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dakota from North Dakota on Nov 25, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1: 5.9, 90m Approach Slab
Climb a big slab to a major terrace that is also used to access The Dragon/Serpent and Climb Bold or Fly. Belay at two very rusty bolts backed up with hand-size cams. This long pitch can be broken in two.
P2: 5.10, 70m Pegmatite Pillars
About 100m up the terrace from the belay, start in a low angle, left-facing corner (hands/fists). Trend right to the base of a peg tower. Take the splitter crack through the peg in the middle of the tower until its end (NOT the longer corner crack to the left). Traverse right into a short, black corner, and belay at a bolt. Gear: triples 0.2-#2, two #3, a #4, and lots of draws.
P3: 5.7 A2+, 35m
Traverse right to an overhanging corner. A short section of steep nailing leads to awkward cam placements. Continue upwards towards the wide roof crack and an arete. Belay at a single bolt with beaks under a roof. This is a good portaledge bivy. Gear: beaks, finger-size cams, and a #5.
P4: 5.9 A2, 45m
Climb left into a chossy chimney and start nailing when it gets dangerous. Continue climbing the bushy chimney and belay at a bolt and big cams. Gear: microcams, nuts, hands, and beaks.
P5: 5.9 A2, 35m The Inverted Staircase
Pendulum or face climb left to a vegetated weakness in the peg band. Climb the path of least resistance switching cracks occasionally. Nail the overhanging staircase until it eases to face climbing (loose). Gear belay at a small stance beneath a triangular roof. Gear: beaks, doubles of finger-size, and singles of hand-size.
P6: 5.9+R C1 (likely 5.11), 80m The Looong and Loose
Climb C1 roof escaping to arete on face holds (good rock). Follow a loose gully through both good and horrendous rock. Belay at a large, sloping ledge on small gear. Bolts above to the right mark a nice place for portaledges. (This long pitch can be broken in two). Gear: doubles finger-size, and singles in hand-size.
P7: 5.11 PG-13, 60m The Loose Tooth Roofs
Trend left up the slab to a left-facing crack in the peg. Traverse left across the wide, hanging crack, and pull the final straight-in roof. Belay at a single bolt and big cam just below a wide roof. This is potentially more dangerous than PG-13. Gear: double fingers, triples #2-4, a single #5, #6, and every draw.
P8: 5.11- or C1, 60m Wobbler’s Offwidth
Climb through an awkward wide roof. Follow the chimney/face up, and trend left following great rock and fun moderate climbing to a belay ledge above a 0.75 short roof crack. Left of the big peg band just beneath a black face. Gear: triples #0.2 - 4, and a single #6.
P9: 5.10 R ,60m Pegmatite Horror Chimneys
Cast into the gaping peg chimney and a peg gully above it. This quickly becomes a rotten, dead vertical chimney capped off by a questionably attached chockstone (5.10 R). Continue up a final 30 feet of low 5th to a sloping belay stance with great options for a gear anchor. Gear: doubles #0.3 - 4, single #5, and an optional #6.
P10: 5.8, 70m
Climb straight up the shorter peg chimney. Then navigate various easy features through bushes, loose blocks, and finally talus. Stretch the rope to reach the biggest section of vegetated ledge with great gear anchor options. Gear: doubles #0.2 - 4.
P10½: 4th, 15m
From the bushy ledge, move the belay left to the base of a slab.
P11: 5.10, 70m
Climb the slab and step across to the face. Summit the rim! Gear: doubles #0.2 - 3.



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