Luce Nuova

A fine 2-pitch route, that has very nice and varied climbing, but unfortunately is a bit vegetated for the 2nd half of the 2nd pitch and has a poorly located 2nd pitch anchor.  The guide book gives the first pitch 6a+ and the 2nd pitch 6a - we found the technical crux on the first pitch and the physical crux on the second pitch to be significantly harder than anything we climbed on the Campanil and the first pitch of Diedro Rotto (6b in the guide book).

P1 - 10c, 65' - Climb the easy, right facing corner to the first bolt.  Move up easy ground to clip the 2nd bolt, then climb up and right onto the face with technical (crux) moves.  Gain the left leaning flake/ramp and follow it to the anchor.

P2 - 10c, 60' - Undercling the lip to make the first clip, then make a series of physical moves (crux) to get over the lip and continue up the corner.  Around the 4th bolt the grade eases, but a little higher the corner becomes quite vegetated.  There are still decent holds and fun climbing, but caution is warranted.  The anchor is in a poor spot, forcing a hanging belay.  However, from here, a single 70m rope just makes it to the ground on rappel (tie knots in the ends).

From the Sector 2 sign move up and toward the right past a bench.  The route is marked with paint.

We brought 10 draws and 2 alpine runners, which was sufficient. The anchors are 2 bolt/single locking biner.