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Bullets before Breakfast
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 10
votes
Routes in Shotgun - Riverside
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Ankles, Knees & Toes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binary System T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullets before Breakfast S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Danylo’s Delicious Salty Sausage Dinner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Full Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long May You Run S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mango Haze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mid-Life Wasted Bolting S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Tag Warriors S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stars at Night, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 426 ft (129 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.46638, -83.2246 |
| FA: | Reg Smart, David Smart, John Kaandorp, June 20, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 799 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Vrolyk on Sep 13, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone |
Description
Pitch 1, 5.8, 25 m. Climb the rib to a ledge with juniper.
Pitch 2, 5.9, 15 m. Cross a gully on the right, traverse a ledge until a couple of steep moves lead to the belay.
Pitch 3, 5.10a, 30 m. Climb the wall above the Lucky Ledge
Pitch 4, 5.9, 25 m. Steep groove blocked by a chockstone, and a slab lead to bolts just below top
Pitch 5, Scramble couple meters to huge North Channel Ledge, and follow flagging tape 70m to left to a bolt belay at end of ledge.
Pitch 6, 5.8, 20 m. Exposed climbing up a wall to a ledge with two prominent trees that have been hit by lightning.
Pitch 7, 5.3, 15 m. Easy climb to very top of cliff.
Location
Left side of Riverside Rock, where prominent vertical wall rises 75 m at its highest point to a large forested ledge (The North Channel)
Protection
Bring 12 draws and a 70 meter rope if you want to descend by rappel. This will take a while with a single rope. Double ropes or tagline would be advised. The first descent is down the second wall to reach the large north channel ledge. You'll find a fixed static line at the top to get back to the edge for the rappel. There is not fixed gear at the top out of the final 6th pitch so you'll need to rap off a tree or bring fixed gear to leave however make sure to leave yourself enough distance to get down to the fixed gear at the start of the 6th pitch. Alternatively, hike down following the orange/pink tagged trees found to climbers right or NW direction of the cliff. This hike takes approximately 22 minutes to reach the road and has 2 steep sections with fixed lines to lower yourself down.
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