Normal Route

Nadelhorn is a 4000m peak in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. The standard route up the mountain, detailed in this write up, starts in Saas-Fee. From Saas-Fee, your first objective will be to ascend to the Mischabelhütte at 10958’, 3340m. This trail gains almost 5000’, 1500m, in roughly 3 miles. The last 2000’, 600m, are on an easy klettersteig (via ferrata). None of the scrambling goes above Class 3/4, and most people will not use via ferrata equipment for this section.  

After leaving Mischabelhütte, you will work on gaining the ridge of Schwarzhorn at 11877’, 3620m. This is relatively easy scrambling at Difficult Class 2. From here, you will cross a relatively flat section of the Hohbalm Glacier. Late in season, crevasses will open up in this flat section. While working across the glacier, you will be heading towards Windjoch, the col between Ulrichshorn and Nadelhorn. Gaining the Windjoch can be challenging, as big glaciers do open up on this section. The glacial ice to gain the ridge will be about 40 degrees. 

After gaining Windjoch, the entire North East ridge to the summit will be visible. Until the base of the summit block, this ridge will be a moderate snow climb with 3 or 4 fins that you have to cross. These fins will be mixed rock and ice. The most difficult move on this North East Ridge will be an extremely short 5.1 section to gain one of the fins. Overall, this ridge provides a great introduction to mixed snow/ice/rock climbs. 

The summit block will be more mixed ice/rock scrambling at a Class 4 difficulty, but it’s only for a few hundred feet, < 100m. The summit isn’t very large, so you might have to queue depending on other parties in the mountain.

Descending Nadelhorn will be retracing your steps all the way back down to Saas-Fee. The ice/glaciers will soften as the sun warms up the ground. Keep this in mind while descending, as ice conditions may have changed.

The trail stars right in the village of Saas-Fee. 

Via Ferrata rebar on the ascent, but no fixed protection.