Layback Lobster
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 26.86792, 128.26174 |
| FA: | Bo Buckley |
| Page Views: | 248 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Christopher Buckley on Aug 24, 2022 |
| Admins: | Christopher Buckley, Alex R |
Description
The route:
Route starts on a juggy face at the bottom, moves into a somewhat sparse slab, then moves up to the layback face along the right side of the chimney before a final diagonal traverse up and over the chimney to the anchors on the left hand side. The crux is getting past the last bolt on the right side all the way until you get to the anchors. Take care of some loose rocks still lodged into the top of the chimney while you traverse. You have to grab pretty far back into it to let anything loose, but it can be potentially hazardous, especially for those below. Helmets highly recommended for both climber and belayer.
Although one can potentially stem up the chimney the whole way up while traversing to clip each bolt, this was not the intent of the route, brings the grade down quite a bit, and it ruins a lot of the fun. To climb as envisioned, and maintain true layback-lobster form, keep your hands on the right side of the chimey or further right on the face(no stemming until crossing over left towards the end). Feet are free all the way up (i.e. left side of the chimney is on). It can also be climbed as an arete (no left-side feet) for an extra challenge.
Logistics:
It has some quirks. The start can be tricky/risky during high tide so its best done at least a few hours before/after high tide. At low tide you can belay directly underneath the route, but at higher tides it is best to prepare a double length sling to wrap around a nearby horn and/or cam for a belay station otherwise your going to get wet/hurt if the climber takes a fall.
It can also be challenging to get your rope down without it getting dunked in the ocean. The best way I've found is clean the anchor with the climber lowering off the left side, then partially downclimbing around the left-hand side of the front slab boulder. After untying, continue pulling from the left side of the boulder with the intent that the rope will land on top of the boulder rather than in the ocean. As the rope gets close to letting loose, make a drastic quick pull away from the wall and it should land either on the boulder or near your feet. You may get a few snags on the boulder, but its a reasonably safe high ball boulder (V0) if you can't get it down.



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