Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 19 ft (6 m)
GPS: 34.71581, -98.67208
FA: FKA Ryan Sheldon
Page Views: 286 total · 7/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Aug 21, 2022
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Cool Hand Luke looks a lot like a miniature Crazy Alice but climbs noticeably harder and more committing throughout as it is Vertical.

Great holds, pretty solid rock, and nice movement demands create a satisfying boulder or short trad line to send!

Start low in the wandering crack and crank on cuppy jugs and bomber jams. The secure start turns into higher specificity and tippy fingers. Features are spread wide and tall at nice intervals revealing what can be an athletic gym climb or a completely controlled trad climb - Cool Hand Luke is neat in this dual nature!

There are a few committing moves I won’t spoil but buckle up for the topout!

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A friend showed me the line thinking it was perhaps undocumented and due to the slanting fall, rain, and edgey irregular boulders we opted to save our bones and climb it on gear.

At 19’ it is a perfect height for a boulder, but a highball for the landing for sure. We did not attempt to stack or orient pads so perhaps this could be done well - if so update the page with good beta!

Location Suggest change

Cool Hand Luke faces north on a shallow wall that runs E-W perpendicular to the creek. There is a tree between the climber and the wandering crack on the approach. CHL is tucked in this corner just right of the interesting looking layered overhang that has bright yellow covered lichen facing west back toward the road. If you’re more than 50’ from the creek you’ve gone too far!

Protection Suggest change

Crashpads to climb in style of FA or BD0.3-3, TR or Belay Anchor: BD2/2/3

Photos

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