Wet Lycra Nightmare
5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British A0
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 37.71281, -119.64769 |
| FA: | FFA: Todd Skinner, Jim Hewett 2004 |
| Page Views: | 4,988 total · 102/month |
| Shared By: | s stroh on May 28, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Wet Denim Daydream free
P1: Bolt ladder
P2: 12c: Off the belay fun stemming takes you to a bolt and a rest followed by a fun corner to the anchor.
P3: 13-: Fun stemming off the belay takes you to the first crux pulling over the bulge, good holds and fun stemming leads you to easier face climbing and a mantle onto a slab. Rest here and battle the crux of the pitch pulling the small roof. An optin traversing left at 11c R also exists.
P4: 12d++++: IMHO the hardest pitch of the route. Fun 5.11 face and slab climbing leads you to a hueco rest. Hard, insecure stemming and a slabby traverse take you to the anchor of the crux pitch.
P5: 13d Traverse right on sclupted edges to the jug rail, cut back left on hero jugs and rest up for the crux mantel. After pulling the mantel execute a delicate 12c sequence(helps to be tall) and traverse right on easy climbing to a fun dyno and mantel to the anchors.
P6: 13- Fun crack climbing off the belay leads you to a face crux through a band of quartzite, enter the corner, rest up, and stem your way through the crux of the pitch to a rest at a juggy flake. Keep your bearings about you for the oddly hard last move of the pitch and belay at an uncomfortable stance.
P7: 13- Intermixed face and corner climbing past numerous fix pins is the name of the game on this pitch, a couple cheeky kneebars exist so a kneepad can help. The crux comes high with a face traverse into the hanging corner, mega exposed and awesome climbing on this pitch. Climb the corner to the worst belay on the route(youll see).
P8: 10 Climb the crack/flare to an awesome ledge.
P9 13- Awkward corner climbing to an intermediate aid anchor leads you to the traverse out the roof and the infamous bombay, a number of ways exist to enter the bombay, pick your poison and trust your belayer and enter the chimney, once established look down at the exposure and realize how lucky you are to be in this position. Climb out the chimney and mantle onto the slab above, climbing to the summit.



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