Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Darryl Hatten
Page Views: 6,027 total · 37/month
Shared By: Ryan Huetter on Dec 12, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This is kind of like the big brother to the West Face route. Similar steepness, lots of fixed gear of questionable quality, but with a kick-ass 15 ft horizontal roof crack to cap the whole thing off with.

Climb up to Ahwahnee Ledge, the route starts from here. Some funky free climbing (best not to clip Hotrod anchor right off ledge as pro), gets you to an intermediate free-climbing belay and below the nice beak and head seam. From here on out it is up to you to decide whether or not to clip those nice shiny bolts added by Skinner when he freed the route (Dry Lycra Nightmare). The only person to care or not will be you. They do change the route in my opinion. For the worse.
Anyway, keep on chuggin up lots of fixed gear to the splitter roof crack. Best for you partner if you back clean it all the way out to the lip, or leave enough gear for him/her to easily re-aid it. If you arenĀ“t crippled by rope drag at this point, climb up thin crack to ledge.

If you are climbing this later in the season, DO NOT TAKE YOUR SHOES OFF ON THIS LEDGE! It will be pretty sticky and gross. You have been warned.

Location

Approach as for West Face, climb first 4 pitches up to Ahwahnee Ledge.

Protection

Medium beaks (2/3) for handplacing
Hooks
Offsets, Aliens and HBs
Cams up to 3"

Photos