Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Leaning Tower

Jesus Built My Hotrod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4
West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Westie Face T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Wet Denim Daydream 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C3- PG13
Type: Aid, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Darryl Hatten
Page Views: 2,733 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ryan Huetter on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is kind of like the big brother to the West Face route. Similar steepness, lots of fixed gear of questionable quality, but with a kick-ass 15 ft horizontal roof crack to cap the whole thing off with.

Climb up to Ahwahnee Ledge, the route starts from here. Some funky free climbing (best not to clip Hotrod anchor right off ledge as pro), gets you to an intermediate free-climbing belay and below the nice beak and head seam. From here on out it is up to you to decide whether or not to clip those nice shiny bolts added by Skinner when he freed the route (Dry Lycra Nightmare). The only person to care or not will be you. They do change the route in my opinion. For the worse.
Anyway, keep on chuggin up lots of fixed gear to the splitter roof crack. Best for you partner if you back clean it all the way out to the lip, or leave enough gear for him/her to easily re-aid it. If you arenĀ“t crippled by rope drag at this point, climb up thin crack to ledge.

If you are climbing this later in the season, DO NOT TAKE YOUR SHOES OFF ON THIS LEDGE! It will be pretty sticky and gross. You have been warned.

Location

Approach as for West Face, climb first 4 pitches up to Ahwahnee Ledge.

Protection

Medium beaks (2/3) for handplacing
Hooks
Offsets, Aliens and HBs
Cams up to 3"

Photos

- No Photos -
Chris CW
Boulder, CO
Chris CW   Boulder, CO
Take two aluminum Heads in case they are not there for pitch Two. #3 or #2 Head. Sep 7, 2016
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
Went back with a hammer this time and sent. Sewed up the pitch off Ahwahnee, placing 8 beaks in 25 feet. I thought the small "Left" Tomahawks were the most useful. Rest of the route went clean.

The 3rd pitch above Ahwahnee has a terrifying 9' tall detached flake. It's ridiculous how far it's leaning out for how little contact it's making with the wall. There's a sketchy bathead, then drilled hook, and then you just sort of squeeze behind the flake while trying to press on it as lightly as possible. Thought about trying to trundle it, but couldn't be sure that the base was clear. Jul 14, 2016
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
After doing a handful of easy trade routes (W Face of the Tower, Liberty Cap, Lurking Fear, The Prow) and finding them altogether straightforward and easy, I was looking for something more challenging where I'd actually have to think about some of the placements. So I tried doing a hammerless ascent of Wet Denim and immediately got shut down by the beak seam on the pitch above Ahwahnee and ended up rapping to the ground.

The fact that anyone can get up that on hand placed beaks is incredible to me. Even if I had brought a hammer (and a more extensive selection of beaks) it's not ideal for your first A3. The fall is quite nasty if you were to screw up and pop a couple pieces. You're not far above the low angle 5.7 terrain, and the chicken bolts wouldn't save you from that pedestal of stacked blocks if you zippered from a couple placements above the last one. Probably no big deal for wall climbing veterans, but if you're a novice like me, looking for something that's just a step up from the West Face, the Daydream is more like a gigantic leap up in difficulty, imo. Oct 10, 2015