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Roulette
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British A3+ PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Leaning Tower
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East Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jesus Built My Hotrod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 |
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Roulette T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+ PG13 |
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West Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Westie Face T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c A0 R |
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Wet Denim Daydream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3 PG13 |
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Wet Lycra Nightmare T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a A0 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade VI |
| GPS: | 37.71281, -119.64769 |
| FA: | March 1984, Earl Redfern, Tom Bepler |
| Page Views: | 2,223 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Fail Falling on Dec 29, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Amazing thin beaking, heading, and hooking line on the right side of Leaning Tower.
No real crux as the route is consistently difficult on every pitch except for the final short pitch to the summit. Previous stories of insane runout hooking seems to be overhyped as the "pancake potential" (text from orig topo) hooking on the first pitch is only about 15'-20' of solid grappling hooks.
This route is real deal A3+ but those not used to thin beaking on Yosemite Granite may feel like it's A4
I upgraded most anchors on the route Nov'19 and all anchors now have two ⅜" bolts except for the last anchor before the top which has one 3/8" bot and a perfect C1 crack to next to it for gear. Most of the Zamac rivets on the first few pitches have been replaced by me as well and the worst of the rivets on the upper pitches were replaced when possible. Remaining original rivets are fine.
1 Comment