Type: Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade VI
FA: March 1984, Earl Redfern, Tom Bepler
Page Views: 1,358 total · 46/month
Shared By: Kevin DeWeese on Dec 29, 2019
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

Amazing thin beaking, heading, and hooking line on the right side of Leaning Tower.

No real crux as the route is consistently difficult on every pitch except for the final short pitch to the summit. Previous stories of insane runout hooking seems to be overhyped as the "pancake potential" (text from orig topo) hooking on the first pitch is only about 15'-20' of solid grappling hooks.

This route is real deal A3+ but those not used to thin beaking on Yosemite Granite may feel like it's A4

I upgraded most anchors on the route Nov'19 and all anchors now have two ⅜" bolts except for the last anchor before the top which has one 3/8" bot and a perfect C1 crack to next to it for gear. Most of the  Zamac rivets on the first few pitches have been replaced by me as well and the worst of the rivets on the upper pitches were replaced when possible. Remaining original rivets are fine.

Location

Starts on the approach ledge for leaning Tower right before the largest tree right before the 5th class section of the traverse. 

Protection

28 beaks (8ea #3, 10ea #1&2)
6 LAs: (2ea #1-3
Nuts: 1ea
Cams:
3ea 0.3"-1"
2ea 1.25"-2"
(Offsets useful)
Heads: 10 (all sizes)
Hooks: 2ea
Rivet Hangers:10 (thin and reg)
Portaledge

Photos