Lead Belly

The story is as old as America itself. A talented Black man writes a hit song, and some mediocre white guys get all the fame, money, and credit. But never mind the bollocks, folks…because this awesome, bouldery route honors the original artist AND will pump you out of your mind.

The climbing starts on a super overhung bulge of rock that extends out from a small cave in the wall. Find the best hands and feet and be prepared to either dyno or make a big, static reach to a great hidden hold. Cut your feet, plant them firmly in some pockets and prepare yourself for another long, powerful reach to a small crimp. Find a good place to make the third clip and prepare for some steep slab moves on small holds. The second crux lies ahead about halfway up the route. Find the good, crimpy rail and set yourself up for a hucky throw to a huge jug. The rest of the route navigates some tricky slab moves on easier terrain to a set of anchors that this climb shares with the route to its immediate left. A perfect crescendo to your Black Betty Wall session! GET ON IT AND GET WORKED!

Walk to the right-hand side of the Black Betty Wall. You will end up at this location after hiking up the trail. Lead Belly is the second bolt line you will encounter when you start moving left. Obvious start out of the small cave. Find a good heal toe cam in a heuco at base of the wall. Those that perceiver might find a good undercling somewhere underneath the belly.