She's So Rock Steady

For those of you who just crushed Smells Like Team Smear It, on the Pheromone Wall, at Blue Sky, here is your next earworm. Located on the very left-hand side of the Black Betty Wall, this beautiful, black hunk of rock is probably one of the better examples of the a “MUST DO!” route of its grade and style.

Starts with big holds and smooth sailing on slabby terrain. The moves flow left at the second bolt and then, out of the black, comes a candy shop full of delicious holds of all varieties and flavors till you reach the crux beyond the sixth bolt. 

Stand on those tippy toes and reach, kids! Use your feet and climb like a girl! Envision success and think your way through the techy problem to some big holds under a roof. The lack of pump makes V0 minus moves doable if you must don’t lose your cool. And for God’s sakes, if you feel yourself slipping off, just let go. The ride is safe, and the failure is fun. 

A perfect route for those who have the stamina to send Carp on a top rope but lack the confidence to lead Dragonfly without calling “TAKE!” Slabs are hard, folks. But remember, if you want to climb some of the bestest classics in all the world, you need to figure out how to work your way through them. GET ON THIS SOON TO BE THREE STAR CLASSIC AND GET GOOD AND SLABBY WITH IT! Your patience with yourself will be rewarded with big holds over a 5.8 roof on huge, honking holds. AND THEN! There’s the perfect ending for novice rock climbers who need some practice for the sacking up necessary to finish a route on easy terrain after climbing a few feet away from your last piece of gear!  FUN! FUN! FUN! And not scary at all.

Never mind the bollocks, folks…because this route is Canyon Crew tested and BBQ approved! GET ON IT!

As of Spring, 2022, this route is the second bolted line on the very left-hand side of the wall. The belay is narrow. Feel free to attach your belayer to the cold shut at the base.