Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Vincent Pham
Page Views: 390 total · 14/month
Shared By: Vincent P on Apr 20, 2022
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Joanie Mars, Jim Day

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route has completely changed since the rockfall of 2012. No longer a large crack flake, now with more pockets and crimps on the face. 

Originally named Schoolboy Fantasies and FA'd by Greg Brooks/Robert Middleton. With respect to the FA, I've contacted Greg (through Tommy) who has no issues with listing it as a new route as it's climbed very differently now.

At bolt 4 and above, I stay on the main (right) face, and avoid touching any of the left boulder crack & left multi-hueco roof system. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxlM4nC1dhk

Location Suggest change

Left-most route at New Wall, left of Hysteria and Cloud 9.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts. 2 sport anchor clips. Inspect bolt 1 as it's rusty.

Photos

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