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Routes in New Wall Proper

Buddha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cloud Nine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hysteria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mandingo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walk the Dog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wowie Zowie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson, 1988
Page Views: 440 total, 4/month
Shared By: kyber on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

this is a one move wonder 12, climb up to the ledge begin out and over super thin buldge using some small crimps, lockoff strength and some a toss/dyno to a jug ledge/rail. at this point your joining the route walk the dog (11-) and is probably easy 10 from here on out...

Location

on the right side of wall right by the big tree. the right most route on this wall is Walk the Dog which shares bolt 4, the piton and chains with Buddha.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 piton + chains

Photos

Tommy Blackwell
Austin, Texas
 
Tommy Blackwell   Austin, Texas
 
youtu.be/G0MkB7cWiEg


The route has 4 bolts and one piton. Many (most?) folks don't clip the piton as it takes an extra effort midway through the move from above the #4 bolt.

This video begins after the 5.12a crux with the 3rd bolt clipped. The climber clips #4 but does not clip the piton. Nice catch! Jun 10, 2017
Tommy Blackwell
Austin, Texas
 
Tommy Blackwell   Austin, Texas