Paint It Black

Paint It Black is an all bolt-protected "sport route" that follows a series of faces and features up the right side of the wall. The terrain is varied with some steep faces to start, then some moderate middle pitches, finishing with a couple more steep pitches to the top of the wall. The route is east-facing and gets morning sun and afternoon shade. The views and position are outstanding. The rock is overall good, but like the rest of the area, it has some looseness and surprises. Helmets are recommended. All SS hardware was used and has been camouflaged, making some of the bolts difficult to spot, but they are there. All anchors have been equipped for rapping.

P1. Look for the line of black bolts that are a little right of the center of the wall. Climb up the steep, black streak to a semi-hanging stance, 5.10(c/d), 90', 8 bolts.

P2. This is slightly easier than the first pitch, go up more steep face to a nice ledge, 5.10b, 100', 8 bolts.

P3. Do a steep move to start, then it is moderate to a nice ledge belay, 5.8, 80', 7 bolts.

P4. Go up easy climbing up a lower angle portion of the wall, 5.7, 100', 7 bolts.

P5. Continue up with some fun climbing with a steep and juggy finish at a nice perch, 5.9, 105', 10 bolts.

P6. Ascend good climbing with several cruxes mixed with rests to a good ledge, 5.10b, 100', 10 bolts.

P7. End with more good climbing with a steep finish to the top of the wall, 5.10a, 100', 10 bolts.

• Descent: rappel from bolted anchors with a 70m rope, and watch your rope ends on a couple of the raps.
• Bring 10 draws (some long are nice to minimize any drag) and a 70m rope.

The hike in from the Pine River Trail via the Tradistan Tower approach is tedious and probably takes at least 2 hours. The preferred approach is to hike to the top of the wall, rappel in and climb out. 

Follow Middle Mountain Road to Runlett Park (~11 miles), and park at an obvious parking area on the left (37.486622, -107.506554). At the U-turn in the road (37.485274, -107.506983), follow the ATV track south until a large open meadow. Just over a cattleguard, follow the fence line to the left. Continue down the fence line until a faint trail heading to the right. Follow this faint trail (may be some flagging) through the woods and eventually the top of the wall (37.463135, -107.495362). There is a cairn at the top of the route near a bolted anchor. A couple of the raps are all of a 70m rope, so knot your ends.

10 draws and a 70m rope.