Avg: 3.9 from 10
votes
Paint It Black is an all bolt protected sport route that follows a series of features and faces up right of center of the wall. The terrain is varied with some steep faces to start, then some moderate middle pitches, finishing with a couple more steep pitches to the top of the wall. The route is east-facing and gets morning sun and afternoon shade. The views and position are outstanding. The rock is overall good, but like the rest of the area, it has some looseness and surprises. Helmets are recommended. All SS hardware was used and has been camouflaged, making some of the bolts difficult to spot, but they are there. All anchors have been equipped for rapping.
P1. Climb up the steep, black streak to a semi-hanging stance, 5.10(c/d), 90', 8 bolts.
P2. This is slightly easier than the first pitch, go up more steep face to a nice ledge, 5.10b, 100', 8 bolts.
P3. Do a steep move to start, then it is moderate to a nice ledge belay, 5.8, 80', 7 bolts.
P4. Go up easy climbing up a lower angle portion of the wall, 5.7, 100', 7 bolts.
P5. Continue up with some fun climbing with a steep and juggy finish at a nice perch, 5.9, 105', 10 bolts.
P6. Ascend good climbing with several cruxes mixed with rests to a good ledge, 5.10b, 100', 10 bolts.
P7. End with more good climbing with a steep finish to the top of the wall, 5.10a, 100', 10 bolts.
Look for the line of black bolts leading up a steep black streak. It starts off some slabs, a little right of the center of the wall.
The hike in from the Pine River Trail via the Tradistan approach is tedious and probably takes at least 2 hours. The preferred approach is to rappel in and climb out. Follow Middle Mountain Road to Runlett Park (~11 miles), and park at an obvious parking area on the left (37.486622, -107.506554). At the U-turn in the road (37.485274, -107.506983), follow the ATV track south until a large open meadow. Just over a cattleguard, follow the fence line to the left. Continue down the fence line until a faint trail heading to the right. Follow this faint trail (may be some flagging) through the woods and eventually the top of the wall (37.463135, -107.495362). There is a cairn at the top of the route near a bolted anchor. A couple of the raps are all of a 70m rope, so knot your ends.
10 draws and a 70m rope.
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Lander, WY
Durango
We thought P1 was a good bit harder than the rest, but every pitch was a blast. Every belay is on a great ledge, and the views are wonderful.
For those using the topo picture to find the start of the climb, we found that the start of the route is farther right than shown on the topo. The start is actually in the shadow in the picture, about 50 feet before you reach the little side slot canyon on the ledge.
Once I get the last bit of lichen out of my eyes, I'll remember it even more fondly... but really, one of the best climbs of its kind anywhere in the region. Kind of reminded me of PEMA in Ouray but more harder, longer, and more adventurous. Great climb! May 9, 2022
Durango
Durango, CO
Gear: 10 draws, 0 alpines, a 70m rope (60m will NOT reach).
Approach: power through the Tradistan Tower slog, and prepare for a lot more slogging. Once we passed No Country for Old Men, there wasn't a trail to the base of the route that we could find, and the bushwhacking was either dense, steep, or both. The topo provided by eDixon was not accurate, the route was another few dozen feet to the right. For the descent, I would hike back up to the base of Nuggernaut and rejoin the trail, we tried to cheat the system by joining the trail low and ended up bushwhacking the whole way down....
Climb: pitch 1 was pretty stout, but a mid-10s leader should be able to handle it with a hang or two. As you continue up the wall, the rock gets higher in quality, but there wasn't much choss to contend with regardless. The bolt spacing was very reasonable the whole way up. Pitch 5 was the most fun, a series of small roofs with huge jugs to keep the grade low and no trad spice (finally!) to make it feel any harder. It's really a sick climb from top to bottom!
I agree with Allie's comment about this being a harder, better PEMA. If it wasn't for the long approach, pretty much everything at Pine River would be much more popular (though maybe that's a good thing). Thank you, ED and AF, for making this route possible. Jun 21, 2023
Durango, CO
The approach was the hardest part. Slogged to the base of the wall via the Tradistan approach and ascended directly under the climb. We ended up on some 5th Class scramble to the start of the bolts. On the way down, we found an easier way, which would be to the looker’s left of the route, up a little gully to a ledge, and then cutting up right, which keeps it mostly 3rd Class. Sep 4, 2024