| Type: | TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02559, -116.1574 |
| FA: | (A3) Jeff Morgan and Dick Richardson, 1976; FFA: (TR) Ron Kauk, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 663 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Mar 3, 2022 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a relatively unknown route that deserves more traffic and a proper free ascent on lead.
A difficult stemming sequence, the hardest move of the route, gains entry into the prominent left arching corner where continuous and sustained tips liebacking, stemming and the occasional thin jam lead up and left to a prominent roof which is bypassed on the right edge; after the seam ends 2 old bolts lead to the top*.
The individual moves in the corner aren't especially difficult but it's a sustained section and stopping to place gear will make it feel a bit more stout.
* The free version climbs about 5 feet or so to the right of where the arching seam dies out, above which the first old bolt is located.
- With the the replacement and re-routing of the 2 old bolts and another bolt down low to protect the opening moves this could be another great lead route; the corner itself is likely protectable with modern gear and perhaps the addition of a few bolts.



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