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Routes in Touch and Go Face

Cornerstone, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Credibility Gap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Hunk, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thrash Or Crash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Matt Cox, Bobby Kessinger, and Dan Ahlborn, January 1976
Page Views: 25,979 total · 133/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jun 24, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best 5.9 cracks in Joshua Tree. Start out in sustained double finger cracks until the right crack peters out. Continue up left crack as it turns to perfect hands and finishes with a small juggy roof.

Belay from a large boulder (gear required) atop the formation.

  • To descend: scramble west through a notch, downclimb into a rock gully and then scramble down the gully (heading east towards Echo Rock) until it opens up and you can make a left back towards your pack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2".
Beautiful and classic. Protects well with nuts and small cams. Fairly thin and definitely sustained...10a? Oct 21, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Larger gear and a long cordilette are useful to builde the belay up top. TO descend walk to the opposite side of the rock (south) and then scramble down to the SW and then around the east back to the trail and then back up to the base if you left your pack there. Jan 6, 2003
Descend by short chimmney to the south and then east around the base to your packs. You never get down to the tail... Jan 6, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Hey AC. You don't get back to the trail, but I do. I looked at the options and found I could bolder hop to the main trail and then walk over to the crag trail and back up. I liked that option better of the two times/ways I did it. Some might not have left the pack at the base, in which case, you just keep walking.Looks liek either way works. Jan 6, 2003
maybe the best 5.9 crack climb in Josh (imo). found it to be easier than Pope's Crack. May 3, 2003
Dynomight510
  5.9
Dynomight510  
  5.9
A sustained climb the first 10-15'feet which is the crux. Stemming and the abiliting to jam a finger crack are helpful. Pro in this section is yellow Metolius. After this section is a good rest but the route overall is steep. Hand size cams the rest of the way. Pro for the trad anchor is 3/4-1.5".

Great quality

Solid for the grade. Sep 12, 2003
Dynomight510
  5.9
Dynomight510  
  5.9
A steep and sustained route the first 10-15' where stemming and finger crack skills play a role. This is the most difficult part of the route but there is a rest after this section and the crack opens to hands. pro on the first section is a yellow Metolius. hand size the rest of the way and for the trad anchor. The walkoff is requires some scrambling and a tiny bit of easy downclimbing. The sustained nature of this route could easy earn a 10a rating by some.

Very protectable climb. Classic for J Tree

Sustained and solid for the grade. Sep 12, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
One of the best routes of it's grade in the Park with great rock, varied moves and an easy approach. Far better than Pope's Crack IMO. Four stars out of five. Pro to 2.5" for the route, while pro to 3.5" is handy for the anchor. Dec 13, 2003
namascar
  5.9
namascar  
  5.9
Excellent route. Opposition helps a lot in the beginning of the climb. #3 and #4 Camalot can be useful for the anchor, together with a very long piece of tubular tape. Feb 9, 2004
Bo Johnston
  5.9+
Bo Johnston  
  5.9+
I climbed this route on a relatively cold day and wouldn't recommend it. It does help numb the hands for the jamming though... Boy, I really wish there was a rap route on this one! The decent is a pain Feb 9, 2005
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
Good route, quality rock, great protection, double cruxed, but it is over way to fast. 3 stars out of 5. Mar 2, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
The route has a bit of a reputation which was messing with my head. I was was happy to find the crack clean, easy to pro and fun, fun, fun. Looking forward to doing it again!

~Susan Sep 26, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
  5.9
SirVato   Boulder
  5.9
This route was friggin COOL!! The tricky twin crack was awesome then the rest was just GOD JAM FUN!! Jan 3, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Overhyped. Awkward down low, but takes great gear. Way too many stars, IMO. Feb 18, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Will - Sorry you feel that way. I loved Touch and Go; great variety of technique, double crux, bomber holds up high for the weary leader! Love the start - stemming the double cracks. A back stem also works very well. But whatever you do, don't lieback that first section, unless you really enjoy blowing out your arms to save your legs or have a physique like Popeye. lol Mar 10, 2007
Numerous ways to do the crux 15 feet. Lots of rests after that. Felt slightly harder than pope's crack. Mar 11, 2007
Bowie Pearson
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Bowie Pearson   Portland, OR
  5.10a
Stemming the first 30 feet got me pretty pumped. I would suggest possibly getting in some gear then liebacking this section. After the start, the rest of the route is pretty easy. Great fun! Feb 20, 2008
Sam Prentice  
 
If you've made it this far down the Comments section, you're going to do the route, and so you should take 15 minutes extra to run up the bolted juggy face climb you pass on the descent: north facing, on your right as you scamper down the mini canyon behind touch and go wall, 4 bolts and a grey camelot down low, probably 5.8... a fun and quick bonus prize after a great climb... anyone know the name? Nov 6, 2008
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
Sam, your probably referring to the climb Jughead Nov 6, 2008
Sounds like Inhaler. Nov 6, 2008
Great climb for anyone leading in the grade. Good top-rope for beginning tradders. Start ain't too bad with some strength. After that move into some solid finger-hand jamming. It gets a bit spicy but protection is good throughout. Experienced climber should be good with pro to 2". The top will come as a relief. Nice and juggy to your right.

Pretty easy to set up an anchor at the top and drop a top rope for your buddies. May 22, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.9
One of the best 9s in the Park. Bottom can be climbed many different ways- just over too fast. Oct 14, 2009
BrendanC
Sherman oaks, ca
  5.9
BrendanC   Sherman oaks, ca
  5.9
Really fun. Short. Great pro right off the deck. Like Pope's the bottom is fairly slick for feet but the jams are positive. Inspect the first 20 feet so you're not plugging up finger locks. Good footwork will make this feel like standard 5.9. Just about stepped on a rattlesnake in the center of the 30 foot wide wash while looking up to locate the route. Thank god he gave me a loud rattle right as I was about to pounce on him. Pheww. May 9, 2011
Brandon C rattle snakes do not exist in Echo. It was your imagination. They only live on the other side pf the park. Sep 21, 2012
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
Must do. Crux is low, a #2 TCU or .4 camalot would probably work best. Nov 17, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Beautiful and Classic in ever Sense! Fantastic Route at its grade and well worth the go! Once you touch it you will know you must go! haha Fun!! Dec 11, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
If you can comfortably climb most of the 5.9's in JT you should get some sort of award and feel pretty good on 5.10a just about anywhere in N America. This is a great route, but had me thinking as a Wa. climber that we need to down grade allot of 5.9's , 10a, b,c, and d's around the NW. Jan 6, 2014
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
What an excellent climb.. I really had to work for this one but got it clean, and that's after sending Bird of Fire which felt almost casual in comparison. A very stiff 5.9 but it eats pro and felt totally safe throughout. Harder than Pope's for sure. Mar 22, 2015
David S.
San Francisco, CA
David S.   San Francisco, CA
Darn that start is hard, but if you are looking and your stemming skills are activated, then you can find little nubbins for your left foot to ease it up a bit.

Harder than Pope's and High Strung, for me. Jan 12, 2018

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