All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon > Gin & Tectonics

The ArcWidth

Name: The ArcWidth
Rating: 4.0

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Gin & Tectonics

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alien's Head, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	ArcWidth, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gin and Tectonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Head Stack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nightwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
	Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Squiggly Line, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Triple Abyss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Two Plumb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	38.54809, -109.67149
FA:	Colten Lay (P 0,1,3) 12/2021 and Pamela Shanti Pack (P2)
Page Views:	690 total · 14/month
Shared By:	Colten Lay on Dec 7, 2021
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Beta

P0 (Approach Pitch): The high quality climbing is guarded by a section of crumbly and loose rock. Only a couple sections of 5.6, then mostly 4th class. 80 feet.

P1: Start out with some bouldery moves, clip a bolt, then layback through a section of powerful tips for a couple moves (crux). It then opens up into hand sizes for about 20 feet. The remainder of the climb is 5s, then 6s. Belay at a two bolt anchor just below the arcing offwidth bulge. 5.12-, 115 feet.

P2: Take only 6's for this pitch and battle to stay in as gravity tries to push you out of the offset bulging offwidth. Belay at a two bolt anchor in a large pod. 5.12-, 60 feet

P3: Pull out over the roof of the pod on 6s using offwidth technique and/or a mixture of face features on the less than vertical wall. Arrive at the headwall and face climb through some easy ledges. Climb a couple moves of steep 5's to gain the summit chimney. Stem and chicken wing your way to the top. 5.11, 75 feet

The rap anchor is located just below the lip of the overhanging headwall. This free hanging rap will bring you directly to the previous anchor. Rap the route with one 70 meter rope.

Location

You can find this route by locating the first of the two talus slopes that reach the base of the Gin and Tectonics wall. The first talus slope goes to The ArcWidth, the second goes to the main Gin & Tectonics wall. It is the obvious clean offwidth splitter that arcs half way up the formation, just left of a major prow.