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Head Stack

Name: Head Stack
Rating: 4.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Gin & Tectonics

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alien's Head, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	ArcWidth, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gin and Tectonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Head Stack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nightwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
	Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Squiggly Line, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Triple Abyss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Two Plumb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	38.54809, -109.67149
FA:	(P1) Topher Donahue and Patience Gribble 1998 (P2) Patrick Kingsbury, belayed by Fred Marmasater 2014. (P3) Colten L, Rope solo, 2023
Page Views:	2,862 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Patrick Kingsbury on Nov 25, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

This is possibly the most asthetic splitter offwidth in Long Canyon.

Pitch one starts with some choss and goes into the obvious splitter offwidth ending on a small ledge. 120' with a width of 5" to 9". (Graded 5.12-?, but more like standard 5.11) 3 bolt anchor

Pitch two continues up the ever widening splitter ending on a good ledge at the obvious sqaure pod. 100' with a width of 9" to 12". (5.10) 2 bolt anchor. (Established ground-up onsight.)

Pitch three starts with sidwinding, then gets a bit tighter for the remainder of the pitch... drops down to BD 7s, then BD 6s, then the crux which is near the top is super tight BD 6s. Bring a couple finger and tips sized gear that can be placed in some horizontals, this will save on the large gear. I believe the pitch was around 120'. Nice ledge 15 feet below true summit with a two bolt anchor. Easy scrambling to the top from there. 5.11