Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: (P1) Topher Donahue and Patience Gribble 1998 (P2) Patrick Kingsbury, belayed by Fred Marmasater 2014
Page Views: 1,134 total · 23/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Nov 25, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is possibly the most asthetic splitter offwidth in Long Canyon.

Pitch one starts with some choss and goes into the obvious splitter offwidth ending on a small ledge. 120' with a width of 5" to 9". (5.12-?) 3 bolt anchor

Pitch two continues up the ever widening splitter ending on a good ledge at the obvious sqaure pod. 100' with a width of 9" to 12". (5.10) 2 bolt anchor

Location

The obvious splitter just left of "Gin and Tectonics"

Protection

Singles #4, #5; 2x #6 and heavy in the 7" to 12" pro.

2 single rope raps from bolt anchors.

Photos

Great climb! I would have brought .75-1" for the start, with only >5" gear it's a chossy/juggy 30' 5.9- solo till your first solid #5. After that, it's fantastic arm-bar and heel-toeing. Pitch two is good also, with a notable crux; bring two #5s for the jog in the crack. Next time, I would probably go ahead and link both pitches, the belay wasn't the most comfortable, and it would be fine as long as you use slings and place accordingly to safely transition the rope out of the crack on the second pitch.

P1) .75-1", #5 (x1-2), #6 (x1-2), #9 (x2 or big bros)
P2) #9, #5 (x2), Blue Bro (x3), slings! Mar 16, 2018