98 Pounds

Pitch lengths approximate.

P1. M6. 35m. There's a mungy chimney that leads up from the back of the alcove. As you contemplate this, instead look to the left wall of the alcove to identify a hand/fist crack and climb this instead to the first ledge, perhaps 60ft above. Optional belay here (mediocre stance) since communication might be difficult from the ledge above. Continue up the leftmost chimney/corner off the ledge for a couple moves then step left onto the face at another hand/fist crack. Top out the crack and scamper up the last steep bit to belay at the back of the ledge.

P2. M2/3. 25m. Choose your own adventure to surmount a couple more steep steps to a large sloping ledge, heading right toward a couple chimneys/gulleys. Belay at a large pillar next to the lefthand chimney/gulley.

P3. M3/4 30m. Scum up the pillar to gain the chimney/gulley just off the belay, then continue trending up and right into another chimney. As the terrain steepens, step right onto the face and wrap around continuing on a snowy ledge. Belay on the left end of a ledge shared by "Golden Spike" (about 50 feet to the right).

P4. M1/2 55m. Head straight up the gulley above and then angle up and left toward the skyline, rambling up snow and short mixed steps. Aim for a small conifer just below the top of the ridge and belay shortly thereafter.

Descent: Scramble down the other side of the ridge and head left to join the standard descent from the Bald Mountain/Reids Peak saddle.

If you need some motivation for this one, look no further than: https://youtu.be/6X1nvW6_C08?t=89

Located about 40 yards to climber's left of "Golden Spike" and "The One Who Knocks" in a small alcove.

Singles from micro cams to #4, doubles in mid to large cams (0.75 - #3, depending on comfort), stoppers, slings. Despite having used them every other time I've climbed at Reids Peak, pitons weren't required.