All Locations > Utah > Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Unitas ICE > Reids Peak Ice

The One Who Knocks

Name: The One Who Knocks
Rating: 4.0

WI6 M5 R

Routes in Reids Peak Ice

L › R R › L A › Z

	98 Pounds T M6 PG13
	Bathos T M4-
	Golden Spike T WI4 M4 R
	Higher Grounds T AI4 M4
	Marvell Route M5 R
	One Who Knocks, The T WI6 M5 R
	Rainbow Frontier T M5
	Root Canal T AI3-4 M4
	Scum Couloir T WI4+
	Southeast Ridge (direct) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
	Sub-Elite All-Arounder T M3
	Sunshine Chimney T M4 R

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Type:	Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	40.70512, -110.91013
FA:	Nikki Smith, Scott Adamson, and Angela Van Wiemeersch, 2014
Page Views:	2,202 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Sean McLane on Nov 7, 2018
Admins:	Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.usda.gov/r04/uinta-wasat… for more information.

Description

A wonderful line up a steep chimney system with a thin pillar crux.

P1 - Climb the first pitch of Golden Spike (WI4 M4) on the left, Ricochet Rabbit (M3) on the right, or the ice pillar (WI5) just left of Ricochet Rabbit to reach the large ledge. Belay far left at the Golden Spike belay station (currently has one fixed piton).
P2 - Two options: 1) traverse right on thin mixed with little-to-no pro to reach the pillar (WI6 M5 R/X) 2) Traverse right under the pillar and chimney up the ice flow under the roof (WI5 M4 R?). For both options, clip the fixed pin under the roof and follow the pillar up, then right to a belay on a good ledge.
P3 - Climb the chimney, first a section with more ice, then a wider, steep mixed section. WI4+/5- M5 R/X
P4 - Scramble through some mixed steps and snowy couloir to the ridgeline. 5.3

Descend to the col on climber's left and back to the base of the route.

Location

Hike up to the col between Reids and Bald. Find the left-most chimney system. The route going left is Golden Spike and the one going straight up is The One Who Knocks.

Protection

In lean years, a few knifeblades / lost arrows, nuts, and a single rack to #4. Doubles or triples in TCUs could be used. In fat years, add a couple stubbies to that. I could only place between 2 and 5 pieces per pitch in Nov 2018.