Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m)
GPS: 40.70512, -110.91013
FA: Derek DeBruin
Page Views: 755 total · 13/month
Shared By: Derek DeBruin on Dec 5, 2021
Admins: Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the base of "Root Canal," instead of heading left up the gully, head right up blocky/ledgy terrain in a large left facing corner (M3ish).

Above this, ramble up past rock, snow, and trees (M1-2) aiming for a weakness below a dead snag in the cliff band overhead. In the large corner, climb up on the right about 20 feet onto the ledge (M3), and then move left to climb either directly up the chimney or the face just left of it (M3/4).

From this constriction, continue on snow into the central couloir in the upper east face. Follow the couloir for a few hundred feet to a flat-ish little cirque about 100ft from the summit. Many chimney/corner options exist on the right, or escape left following the snow to a choke near the ridgeline. Scamper out of this (M2) just a few feet below the summit).

Descent
Descend 3rd/4th class via the southeast ridge to the top of Scum Couloir. Continue along the standard descent near the ridge to the saddle between Reids Peak and Bald Mountain.

Location Suggest change

Start just to the right of "Root Canal." See route overlay photo on the main Reids Peak page: https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/121735421_large_1638642887.jpg

Protection Suggest change

Singles to #3, stoppers, a few pins, slings. Adjust as appropriate if planning to simul-climb. (I climbed solo, so take the rack recommendation with a grain of salt.)

Photos

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