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Routes in Kastri
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Bibou S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cook S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cook Extension S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Enchanted Castle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fata S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Game Over S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gotti S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Haramiss Ext S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Kazonis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Majestic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Para ti Ursula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Principessa Giulia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Rooster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Side Cut S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Side Cut Extension S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wasp S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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X-Over S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | B. Girardin, C + Y Remy, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 295 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Japhy Dhungana on Nov 19, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Charles Yang, Loren P |
Description
♩♩♩
Want a route that makes your heart sing?
The full Haramiss Extension is unique in all of Kalymnos, climbing through a variety of different styles. Thin face-climbing, a slopey mantle, technical stemming through an overhanging dihedral, and a wild hand-jam finish over the top bulge!
Depending on your strengths, the crux is either the stemming technical corner/dihedral, or the finishing moves, or perhaps both!
The stunning position, the fluid movement, the "king line" this route ascends, and the ancient ruins below all conspire to make this one of the finest 5.11's in all of Kalymnos.
Stopping at the lower bolts is a good warm-up, and clocks in at 5.10b.
This is easily the "king line" or the "line of strength" at sector Kastri. Locate the prominent left facing corner/dihedral . This route climbs it directly. The start is located at the bulging base of the gray slab, where white and grey stone meet.
Safety Note
An 80 meter rope is mandatory for this climb, and even with that, you'll have to exercise creativity in getting back down. For the leader, you can swing hard right at the bottom and downclimb easier, low-5th class terrain. Be careful here!
If cleaning the route by top-rope (recommended), then belay from the higher ledge, looker's left, near the castle ruins. An 80-meter rope easily lowers the climber all the way to the base from here when all the quickdraws are cleaned from the route.
Alternatively, climb the route in 2 separate pitches, stopping at the anchor on the good ledge halfway.
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