Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: B Girardin, C + Y Remy, 2007
Page Views: 135 total · 7/month
Shared By: Japhy Dhungana on Nov 19, 2021
Admins: Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the right side of the grey buttress.  Aim for the very prominent thin crack that leads into the dihedral.  The crux comes in the thin crack, with thoughtful and technical moves as you climb up into the dihedral.  

Don't stop at those anchors at the base of the corner; those are for Haramiss.  Instead, continue climbing up and right (the "Side Cut") into ever steepening terrain with big jugs and a wild-position, passing a giant bird's nest along the way to the anchor.  

An excellent 4 bolt extension continues above at 5.11, and an 80 meter rope is mandatory if you choose to climb the extension.  

Protection

15 quickdraws plus 2 anchor bolts. Consider bringing 3-4 long slings to extend some of the lower pieces and as you make the "side cut" to help manage rope drag up high. 35 meter rope mandatory.

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