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Routes in Beak Boulder Area
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Bath Water S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beak Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beak of the Week S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Bacon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chemical Aubrey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Desert Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Sure T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Kamikaze Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Legal in Denmark S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Metallic Foreskin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Modern Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quebexican S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleek Beak T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Some Kind of Wonderful S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streak of the Beak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Beak of the Desert S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throbbing Gristle T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Totally Tubular T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02597, -116.0511 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 585 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Oct 29, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
From a large boulder clip the first bolt and work your slabtastic self up through the next 3 bolts.
Location
From the area with Totally Tubular and Bath Water etc. Move towards the formation with Beak of the Week etc. continue right around this formation towards the start of Super Beak of the Desert. Continue towards the actual Beak Boulder. You'll come to a corridor with a route on the actual face of the Beak Boulder and 3 routes on the formation opposite the Beak. This is the left four bolt route starting off a high boulder.
From the "path" heading around the bigger formation, head up boulder past Some Kind of Wonderful and throw yourself to the next boulder left.
Photos
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