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Beak Boulder Area Rock Climbing
Routes in Beak Boulder Area
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Bath Water S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beak Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beak of the Week S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Bacon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chemical Aubrey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Desert Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Sure T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Kamikaze Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Legal in Denmark S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Metallic Foreskin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Modern Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Quebexican S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleek Beak T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Some Kind of Wonderful S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streak of the Beak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Beak of the Desert S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throbbing Gristle T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Totally Tubular T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 4,140 ft | 1,262 m |
| GPS: |
34.02597, -116.0511 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 28,143 total · 136/month | |
| Shared By: | Darren S on Mar 20, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This area is directly across from Vector Rock. Look for the boulder that looks like a large partridge (you know, from the 12 days of Christmas). This formation can be seen from the parking lot at Split Rocks.
Getting There
Park at Split Rock parking area and head out as for Tiger Rocks and Vector Rock. As you pass, these formations will be on your left. As you pass Vector Rock, Beak boulders will pretty much be staring you in the face.
Getting to the routes can be difficult as you have to scramble up and behind the beak. It took me a while to figure out where the routes were and really have no way to explain it other than there was some tunneling involved.
Classic Climbing Routes at Beak Boulder Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
All Photos Within Beak Boulder Area
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