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Routes in Beak Boulder

Desert Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kamikaze Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Modern Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Throbbing Gristle TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Totally Tubular T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1983 TR
Page Views: 3,179 total, 30/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This rig is a true classic and an odd one for Josh. There are no real face holds, knobs, or crumbly edges to help you. It is overhanging, somewhat flared and leaning.
The rock is very good at the bottom, to the point of being slick inside the crack. Higher up the rock starts to deteriorate, but alas, I never got there... denied!
This route might be the best OW I have seen or tried in Josh.

more info here:


This route is approached much the same way as Kamikaze. Approach time is about 40 minutes if coming in from the road, and not the Split Rock parking area. When you get to the Beak Boulder rocks, skirt the crag to climbers right, instead of left towards Kamikaze. This route is about 150 feet left of Kamikaze. Go up towards the top of the formation where the arrows are in the beta pic. Up on the false summit there will be a point where you can crawl through a giant multiheaded Yucca. Down and right goes to the base of the route, and up and left will get you on the summit. There are two bolts on top for the toprope.


For the lead, not saying that has been done, you will need a few #6 Wild Country cams, and then some stuff to about 3" to finish off to the summit.

For the TR, a couple of slings and biners will do the trick. Two bolt anchor on top.
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Or this gem of Scuffy B.
Part slideshow, part movie:
Scuffy on the Gristle Mar 21, 2009
Dont go to Russ' site for the same old photos. For real entertainment, check out the uncut video of this bruiser! Mar 21, 2009