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Routes in McGillivray Slabs
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Black Lagoon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Irish Mist WI3 |
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Morning Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Man's Rule S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tennessee Bushwhackin’ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Trail Fairies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waterhole WI3 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 1110 ft (336 m), 9 pitches |
| GPS: | 51.0464, -115.1899 |
| FA: | Andy Genereux, 2018 |
| Page Views: | 820 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Katie Reid on Sep 27, 2021 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
Easy to link pitches together. 70m is needed for rappelling, tie knots in the end. If linking pitches, 22 draws will be needed if clipping all the bolts.
P1: 5.10 a/b 35m
P2: 5.10a/b 32m
P3: 5.10b 35m; traverse to the left around the roof
P4: 5.10b 35m
P5: 5.10b 32m
P6: 5.10b/c or 5.11b/c 35m; 5.10b/c option climb the wider crack for 3 bolts then move rightward across the slabs; 5.11b/c option climb directly up the slab past the tricky undercling section
P7: 5.9 35m
P8: 5.10a/b 35m
P9: 5.10b/c or 5.11b/c 35m; 5.10b/c option after the first 3 bolts traverse left and use the arete to help with the slab; 5.11b/c option after the first 3 bolts traverse right directly on the slab
P10: 5.4 25m do this pitch if choosing the walk off option, otherwise skip this if rappelling, there are no rap rings
Descent options:
Rappel option (recommended): 70m rope required
Walk-off option (slightly more complicated): walk off to the west along the top of McGillivary slabs. There is no defined trail. Continue west walking down steep terrain to connect small rock ridges until possible to descend at the western terminus of McGillivary Slabs where there should be a faint trail, eventually reaching the main base of the trail. Head east back to the parking lot
Location
Park at Heart Creek Trail head. Head west on a trail that runs somewhat parallel to the highway until you reach the power lines at redirect in the power lines; this will be about 10 or so minutes from the parking lot. From this point, head up hill for 20m to find a faint trail (there is an orange marker to indicate the beginning of the trail). The trail follows alongside the creek for the most part but do not descend into the creek until about 100m from entering the base of the big bowl. Take a steep path down and walk in the creek bed until reaching a small scree on the right/west side of the gully. Scramble up for about 30m to the base of the climb. Approach takes around 40-60 minutes.
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