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Routes in McGillivray Slabs

Morning Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 5,400 ft
GPS: 51.046, -115.19 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,532 total, 46/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 1, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra
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Description

McGillivray Slabs are North facing and just a hair west of Heart Mountain and before Dead Man's Flat. Located just East of Canmore. The slabs have a short 15 minute approach and several moderate climbs on solid rock. Reminiscent of Kid Goat, but more friction climbing. Several 4 pitch bolted sport routes and a few easy trad routes (Kahl Crack). Worth a visit on a short day.

The downside is the highway noise and looking at the quarry across the lake. There are certainly worse views out there though.

Routes from climbers Left to Right:
Gollywog (5.7R, 240m, 7 pitches, Howe & C. Smith, 1971)
Pythagoras (5.7 270m, 7 pitches, R. Howe, J. Martin & J. White, 1971)
Pixie (5.6, 7 pitches, R. Howe & J. Martin, 1971)
Imagination
Tony's Route (5.5, A. Shaw & F. Williamson, 1969)
McGillivraneering (5.9, 200m+, FA: Brandon Pullan 2005 rope-solo)
7-Up (5.7, First ascent party unknown)
Rubble Without a Cause (5.5, 95m, G. Powter & D. Chandler, June 1983)
Hiatus (5.8 70 m 2 pitches, B. Wyvill and G. Powter, June 1985)
Pitter Patter (5.8 6 pitches?, I. Stewart-Patterson & M. Toft, 1982)
Overhang Route (5.7?, B. Davidson & L. Drews)
Taiga (5.7, 170m FA: Brandon Pullan, June 2005, rope-solo)
Raspberry Ramble
Dirty Boys
Kahl Crack (5.6, 200 m, H. Kahl & party, circa 1965)
Morningside (5.7, 4 pitches)
Student's Route (5.5, A. Derbyshire & party, 1980)
Faye
and several others I haven't found info on yet

Getting There

While heading eastbound from Canmore towards Calgary, when you get to the Lac des Arcs lake, park on the eastbound side of the highway just past a 95km / hr speed sign located just after the little lake on the right. There is a climbers pullout.

Hike up the climbers trail to a fire road and follow that uphill to the base of the crag. Kahl Crack is the giant crack visible from the highway. Morning Side starts just past the cave entrance (obvious, on main trail) and right of Kahl Crack. Several other sport multipitch climbs are located right by the cave, look for bolts.

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Classic Climbing Routes at McGillivray Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Side
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Morning Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
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