Black Lives Matter
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| GPS: | 47.66163, -70.63093 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 473 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Louis-thomas Schreiber on Sep 6, 2021 |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Description
Great route with solid rock and excellent protection.
From the main trail, follow the fixed rope (two bolts) that goes up and climber's left for about 5 meters. At the end of the fixed rope, on a relatively large but not very flat ledge, the climbing begins.
P1. 5.9+ 30m
Climb straight up for a meter or two and traverse left toward the obvious right facing dihedral with the black face. Follow the dihedral all the way up. Its much easier than it looks and the protection is abundant. If doing only the first pitch, use the two bolts with rap rings at the top (a few meters to the right). If doing the second pitch, continue to link p1 & p2 or make a gear anchor.
P2. 5.5 30m
Continue straight up on the slab (1 bolt) to reach another bolted belay on a large ledge. This bolted belay is the end of the fixed rope that runs across the large ledge of Nagasaki and Tangente.
Descent
Rap down or continue on Tangente or Nagasaki.
Tangente starts about 5 meters on you're right.
To reach Tangente, follow the fixed rope on the ledge all the way to the right. The start is exactly where the fixed rope starts to go down.
Location
Keep right on the trail and reach the wall. Continue to the right and up along the wall. Spot the obvious right facing dihedral with the black face. You cant miss it, its the darkest rock you will see from the trail. There should be a fixed rope nearby, follow it up for about 5 meters and there you go.



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