Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
GPS: 47.66163, -70.63093
FA: unknown
Page Views: 473 total · 8/month
Shared By: Louis-thomas Schreiber on Sep 6, 2021
Admins: Richer Lariviere, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Great route with solid rock and excellent protection.

From the main trail, follow the fixed rope (two bolts) that goes up and climber's left for about 5 meters. At the end of the fixed rope, on a relatively large but not very flat ledge, the climbing begins. 

P1. 5.9+ 30m

Climb straight up for a meter or two and traverse left toward the obvious right facing dihedral with the black face. Follow the dihedral all the way up. Its much easier than it looks and the protection is abundant. If doing only the first pitch, use the two bolts with rap rings at the top (a few meters to the right). If doing the second pitch, continue to link p1 & p2 or make a gear anchor.

P2. 5.5 30m

Continue straight up on the slab (1 bolt) to reach another bolted belay on a large ledge. This bolted belay is the end of the fixed rope that runs across the large ledge of Nagasaki and Tangente.

Descent

Rap down or continue on Tangente or Nagasaki.

Tangente starts about 5 meters on you're right.

To reach Tangente, follow the fixed rope on the ledge all the way to the right. The start is exactly where the fixed rope starts to go down.

Location Suggest change

Keep right on the trail and reach the wall. Continue to the right and up along the wall. Spot the obvious right facing dihedral with the black face. You cant miss it, its the darkest rock you will see from the trail. There should be a fixed rope nearby, follow it up for about 5 meters and there you go.

Protection Suggest change

trad, rap station at the top of p1 & p2.

Photos

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