Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 184 total · 7/month
Shared By: Louis-thomas Schreiber on Sep 6, 2021
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere

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Description Suggest change

Start under two small roofs about 2 meters above the ground. Traverse left (still about 2 meters from the ground at this moment, this is the crux, well protected) to reach the left facing dihedral. There is a lot of loose rock in the dihredral, its like climbing of a house of cards. At least you're belayer is protected by the roof above him. Some loose blocks are so large they could easily cut your rope in the way down however. Notwithstanding the loose rock, the climbing is nice. Follow the dihedral until you reach a roof on your left (about 30 meters from the start of the pitch). Continue straight up in the dihedral for Nagasaki Directe (5.11) or traverse left under the roof (slabby moves). Just after the traverse, you reach a comfortable ledge, gear anchor (there is an old nut left from the original ascent).

 You can rap on the fixed nut and slung chockstone or continue in Tangente.

Location Suggest change

From the trail, follow a fixed rope that goes up in a gully (about 40m). When the fixed rope stops going up and turn goes to the left, you've reach the start of Nagasaki.

Protection Suggest change