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Nagasaki
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
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Routes in Le Gros Bras
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Al Dente T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Al Fine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Andante T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Lives Matter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ca va bien aller T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chinook T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gettapo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hals und Bein bruch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harmonie intérieure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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La Proue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lido T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Miroir du Nord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Méchant Boris T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Nagasaki T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Physiothérapie V5 6C |
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Rencontre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rencontre fortuite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rencontre impromptue T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Simulateur cardiaque T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sinus T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tangente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tressaillements Externes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Valérie rêverie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 184 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Louis-thomas Schreiber on Sep 6, 2021 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
Description
Start under two small roofs about 2 meters above the ground. Traverse left (still about 2 meters from the ground at this moment, this is the crux, well protected) to reach the left facing dihedral. There is a lot of loose rock in the dihredral, its like climbing of a house of cards. At least you're belayer is protected by the roof above him. Some loose blocks are so large they could easily cut your rope in the way down however. Notwithstanding the loose rock, the climbing is nice. Follow the dihedral until you reach a roof on your left (about 30 meters from the start of the pitch). Continue straight up in the dihedral for Nagasaki Directe (5.11) or traverse left under the roof (slabby moves). Just after the traverse, you reach a comfortable ledge, gear anchor (there is an old nut left from the original ascent).
You can rap on the fixed nut and slung chockstone or continue in Tangente.
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