Type: Sport, Alpine, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 44.55762, -72.79423
FA: Greg Petrics, Christian Theberge 2013
Page Views: 967 total · 17/month
Shared By: jed wards on Aug 14, 2021
Admins: Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A very enjoyable climb and possibly the most accessible multipitch in Smuggs! 

Pitch 1: Scramble up the easy slab following bolts as they trend leftwards. Continue up wonderfully steep and exposed terrain for the grade until you reach the massive party ledge. Walk a few feet right under the overhang and belay off of a two bolt anchor. 5.7+ 

Pitch 2: Step right, clip a high bolt and pull one or two crux moves, following jugs to a slopey mantle. Then, climb straight up the low fifth class arete, clipping bolts until you reach the ring bolt anchor at the top. You'll wish this part went on for another 100 feet. 5.9 

Location Suggest change

Starts on the bolted slab that touches down right to the herd path. The only pitch that starts from the ground on the buttress. 

Protection Suggest change

10 draws should do it. Ring bolts at the top, a 70 meter rope brings you to the ground in one rappel, a 60 meter will require 15-20 feet of 4th class down climbing. There are no rings on the bolted anchor atop pitch 1, however it is possible to make an exposed scramble on climbers left to descend from here if needed.

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