Asleep at the Wheel

A link to the FA's AAC article:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200220902/North-America-United-States-California-Sierra-Nevada-Mt-Chamberlain-Asleep-at-the-Wheel

***Below is how i climbed the route,  its likely I was off route in some areas, particularly the last pitches.  please make edits if you have better information.***

pitch 0: scramble up very dirty 3rd class ledges to the obvious alcove at the far left end of the central buttress

pitch 1: 5.11 climb up the various crack systems for about 35 meters, then go right thru a finger size corner and roof, using crack systems on the face to help. build a mostly hanging belay on the face on the right of the corner belay the large roof. 60m
*its also possible to take a crack system that angles left.

pitch 2: 5.11 From the belay work up and left aiming for the obvious hand traverse under the roof. pull up out of the roof, then face climb up into a bombay chimney. exit the chimney and climb the right facing corner for 15 or 20 feet, then make a face traverse right to the large ledge. 35m

pitch 3: 5.10 follow a thin crack off the right side of the ledge, aiming to bypass the 3 part roof above to the right. after this roof the major right facing corner of the route is above. climb the corner using face holds and crack on both sides. belay where the rock color changes. 45m

pitch 4: 5.11 pg13 continue up the corner. the rock quality deteriorates thru this pitch, so treat the knobs with caution. pass a small ledge on the left, then climb a 20 foot tall separated column in the corner. belay where able depending on gear. we found a stance with a good #2 in a crystal pod 20 ft after the column. 55m

pitch 5: 5.11 R keep climbing up the corner on sparse thin gear, fortunately the rock improves some. after about 30 feet move around the arete to the right into the next corner. stem your way up this corner with big run outs. Aim for the small roof with some grass growing out of the corner, pull the roof and climb the thin finger crack until the terrain eases, build a belay on the huge ledge. 40m

pitch 6: 5.10 Climb up easy flakes till the headwall steepens, mantle up and follow the crack to a small ledge below a left trending roof. place pro high then step down and traverse across a black dike and knobs to the right. up the roof on knobs, then work up and left following a thin crack with a left facing corner of orange rook the eventually converges at a roof. pull the roof and climb the sea of knobs thru a second roof and up to an alcove where the knobs end. fantastic pitch! 35m

pitch 7: 5.12- Stem and chimney up the crack with medium sized pro in back. power thru the fingers on poor feet to reach the shallow hand crack. head up to the roof, and stem and lieback thru keeping an eye out for knobs on the arete. climb up to the highest of 3 ledges and build and anchor. 35m

****Based on the newest High Sierra guide book, now with topos of the route, the following 3 pitches were off route, from the top of the 12- pitch go climber right up face and horns to a golden headwall and right across a sloping ledge to another hard corner.****

off route pitch 8: 5.11 pg13 climb up and left thru poor rock toward a weakness in a crystal band. place lots of pro and watch out for crumbing feet. climb up easier slab and ledges a build a belay where able. 30m

off route pitch 9: 5.10. climb crack systems, always moving left between cracks, aiming for the angled roof above. smooth angular cracks at the start of the pitch give way to featured face and crack climbing. belay on the sandy ledge below the angled roof. 35m

off route pitch 10: 5.10 traverse to the left off the belay ledge for about 40 feet, aiming for the steep featured crystal band. pull some steep moves thru the crystals, and the climb the blocky and easier large corner system to the top out on the ridge. 50m

on the left side of the central buttress of Mt. Chamberlain's north face.  look for the striking white square with red roofs that marks the crux pitch.

Gear: set of nuts, small offsets useful. doubles 00 thru #2, single #3. triples in .3 thru .75.