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North Face
AI2 Steep Snow
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Winter-Spring (ice, snow, mixed)
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North Face AI2 Steep Snow |
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Northeast Buttress 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M1-2 Mod. Snow |
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Southeast Face Steep Snow |
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Upper West Side, The T WI5- M5 PG13 |
| Type: | Ice, Snow, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Kit Lewis, Charlie Hampson, Rob Harris, Greg Jacobson January 1975 |
| Page Views: | 997 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Topher Dabrowski on Jul 29, 2021 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Begin the route on the center of the north face near a left facing open book rock feature.
P1 - Climb up 70 degree ice until able to establish a solid belay about 50-60m out
P2 - Continue up for a full 60m of typically steep snow to reach a tree belay that is typically exposed on the face
P3 - Climb for 50m utilizing mainly tree anchors along the way
P4 - 50-70 degree snow and ice will lead to a small col about 60' below the summit block
Location
Park at upper Alpental parking lot. Travel up the valley towards Source Lake and eventually towards the basin below the east face of Chair Peak ~4200'
From the basin climb a short snow gully for ~300' to get on to the ridge that forms the NE Buttress. Follow the ridge to the base of the N face and traverse out to mid face where the route proper begins.
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