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North Face

AI2 Steep Snow, Ice, Snow, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: Kit Lewis, Charlie Hampson, Rob Harris, Greg Jacobson January 1975
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Snoqualmie Pass… > Chair Peak > Winter-Spring (ice, s…

Description

Begin the route on the center of the north face near a left facing open book rock feature.

P1 - Climb up 70 degree ice until able to establish a solid belay about 50-60m out

P2 - Continue up for a full 60m of typically steep snow to reach a tree belay that is typically exposed on the face

P3 - Climb for 50m utilizing mainly tree anchors along the way

P4 - 50-70 degree snow and ice will lead to a small col about 60' below the summit block

Location

Park at upper Alpental parking lot. Travel up the valley towards Source Lake and eventually towards the basin below the east face of Chair Peak ~4200'
From the basin climb a short snow gully for ~300' to get on to the ridge that forms the NE Buttress. Follow the ridge to the base of the N face and traverse out to mid face where the route proper begins.

Protection

Ice screws, pickets, small nuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Solid belay at the top of P2
[Hide Photo] Solid belay at the top of P2
Finished with the face portion - Jan 1999
[Hide Photo] Finished with the face portion - Jan 1999
Looking up P2 - verglass and snice
[Hide Photo] Looking up P2 - verglass and snice
Following the ridge towards Chair Peak's north face - Jan 1999
[Hide Photo] Following the ridge towards Chair Peak's north face - Jan 1999
N. face of Chair Peak, from belay at the top of pitch 2
[Hide Photo] N. face of Chair Peak, from belay at the top of pitch 2