Northeast Buttress

A popular winter climb. Most approach from the Snow Lake Trailhead. As with all alpine ice routes, the specifics are highly conditions dependent.

P1: Climb the S-shaped gully on the right. Conditions can vary from easy snow and ice to sections of mixed climbing up to M4. A variation climbs the left slabs. When in good condition, this variation is around A2-3. Both options end at tree anchors. 45m.

P2: Climb a long pitch to the base of the ice bulge. Typically easy snow climbing. 70-80m.

P3: Tackle the obvious, steep ice bulge. Finding a suitable anchor above this pitch can be difficult. A2-3. 40m.

P4: Steep snow leads to the summit saddle. Many teams unrope here to scramble to the summit block. 50m.

Descent

Downclimb from the summit to the saddle and continue downclimbing the steep SW-facing gully. At the base of this gully there is a rappel anchor. The lip of the rappel gully may be heavily corniced. Two 30m rappels reach lower angle terrain.

Park at upper Alpental parking lot. Travel up the valley towards Source Lake and eventually towards the basin below the east face of Chair Peak ~4200'
From the basin climb a short snow gully for ~300' to get on to the ridge that forms the NE Buttress.

Ice screws, pickets, alpine rock rack.