Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 44.17792, -71.68925
FA: Ken Reville, Jamie Cunningham 1992
Page Views: 509 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Jun 21, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A testpiece in runout face climbing. This bold lead begins by climbing past the first 2 bolts of Broken Dreams. From a stance, move left on hard balance moves to a horizontal crack. Place some small gear here and make a hard mantel to stand up to a bolt. Clip it and continue on, climbing steep moves higher than you might like above the ledge, staying on the left side of the arete. Place a small cam or a tricam in a pod, then make more steep moves through another runout, to a spot you can place a 0.2 or 0.3 in a shallow crack (I placed both but just one would work fine). Follow easier moves to the Broken Dreams anchor.

Location Suggest change

Look for the stacked ledges with the high bolt above them, this is No Pigs. To the right is an arete feature with a bolted line on the right (Broken Dreams). Hexmate shares the start of Broken Dreams, then moves on the left side of the arete feature.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a light rack to protect in the horizontal and some draws.

Photos

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