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Routes in Lincoln Lake
| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 12 ft (4 m) |
| FA: | Daniel Woods |
| Page Views: | 558 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Deuto on Jun 5, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
The Exfoliator is on a very interesting boulder that seems ridiculously hard for some and not too bad for others. Begin squatting near the arete, on a right hand, horizontal crimp and left hand, slopey sidepull crimp. Pull on, and fire to a sweet rail, then make tick-tacky moves through crimps to a final crux moving to and off of a poor undercling. Finish with an easy topout on jugs.
While the line itself isn’t beautiful, the holds, moves, and position are rad, hence the three star rank. It’s not quite four due to the slightly forced line (following the arete to the top is V11) and dabby nature, but, man, this thing is cool to try.
Location
This is on the same boulder as Fer Ire, near the top of the main talus on the high parking side. It’s one of the first boulders you come to if you bust a left off the trail under the huge cliffband and talus hop across. Exfoliator faces the lake and starts near the arete, finishing several feet right on the face.
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