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Routes in The Sunny Side
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Aesthetics S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Animal S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Banditos Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Birthday Route, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Hearted Woman S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Widow Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Donut Project S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Grateful He's Dead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mother Hen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pissing On His Grave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Prosthetics S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Jacob Warren |
| Page Views: | 1,121 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | jakobi on May 20, 2021 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Animal makes, what I consider, the third in a trifecta of brilliant conclusions to the Aesthetics Wall. Begin as for Aesthetics/Prosthetics, following the crack to a stance in the chimney that marks the the leftward transition into the above routes. Instead of moving left, tug straight up the coffin prow feature. Resistance compression movement and nearly pure feature climbing with incredible position ensue.
The grade is merely speculation. The compressive nature of the climbing and the dimensions of the prow make the route highly morphological. I hope others will give the pitch a try and add their consensus.
Protection
Although the route is entirely bolted, I placed a finger-sized piece in the horizontal instead of clipping the bolt that marks the transition between Aesthetics and Prosthetics. I felt this alleviated any chance of the rope running behind my feet when standing up on the prow. If you choose to clip the bolt I'd recommend using a runner.
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