All Locations > Maine > -Clifton Crags > Parks Pond Bluff > e. Mountaineers Wall

Snake Charmer

Name: Snake Charmer
Rating: 3.7

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in e. Mountaineers Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anthony S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Cleopatra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Cold Shot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Elf Toes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Eye Socket Route Aka R.T. S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Living in the Past T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Movin'To Montana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peace Frog S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pharaoh, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Snake Charmer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Turkey Trot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	1992: RG, DN
Page Views:	327 total · 11/month
Shared By:	TJHussey on May 15, 2021
Admins:	BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

One of my favorite routes at Parks starts out with a bang: a crux roof right off the ground, easily protected with a horizontally placed cam after tiptoeing up the short slab start. From there, intricate but not terribly difficult vertical climbing leads to a pair of beefy hangers (no rings). Requires 70m rope, or top out on The Pharaoh (5.10d).

Location

Hike past the 5.9 wall as for Anthony, but continue on the main trail for another 30'. Veer left and scramble up to the small plateau underneath the small starting roof.