Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 43.44497, 16.68116
FA: unknown
Page Views: 669 total · 10/month
Shared By: Lisa Diderot on Mar 22, 2021
Admins: Steven Lucarelli

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Stomorica is the most eye-catching crag around the town of Omis, and the line of this route is clearly visible as it follows the long curving right-facing crack mid-way up the wall. While on the route, the views of the sea, the river, the town, and the surrounding hills are incredible. We had 15 quickdraws but I believe only 12 are required.

P1 - 5c (~30m), but the crux move (at 3rd bolt) is as hard as anything on the other pitches. Continue on easier terrain to a nice shaded belay ledge.

P2 - 4b (~18m), a super short traverse pitch (head to the right from the belay, there's only 2 bolts) that serves to get you over to the start of the crack. 

P3 - 6a+ (~30m), fun steeper juggy climbing. Very well bolted. The rock can be a bit sharp from the coral.

P4 - 6a/a+ (~30m), negotiate between bigger (but sharper) holds in the crack and clipping the bolts on the face. At some point, you step out onto the face and continue trending right. The last two bolts of the pitch are quite spaced, but the terrain is easier. 

P5 - 5b (~20m), a shorter pitch that reaches the top of the crack system. 

Once here, it appears that the top of the ridge is a few meters away; however, this is not the case. The guidebook indicated there would be a rap station, but we did not find any rap stations in this area and scrambling down the ridge looked tricky. Instead I continued climbing from the last anchor up about another 30m (no bolts, but easy 5th class) to a sturdy tree at the top of the ridge, from which I belayed my partner. From there we scrambled up along the ridge aiming for a tree where it looked like we could rappel off the other side of the ridge into the gully. As a pleasant surprise, we found bolts next to the tree and rappelled off those. A trail leads from there back to the road.

The climbing is good fun, if a little sharp at times, and has a good mix of slabbier and steeper terrain. The setting is incredible. Combined, I would highly recommend this route if you find yourself in Omis.

Location Suggest change

To get to the route, park on Put Vrila road near the end, and walk up a good trail that starts behind a small hut where the road starts going downhill. Once at the base of the crag (Stomorica Left), there are two bolt lines, and this route is the one on the right.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, tightly spaced (2-3m) in harder sections, and loosely spaced in easier sections. All the hardware looks to be in good condition (as of March 2021).

Photos

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