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Stomorica Rock Climbing
Routes in Stomorica
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Cidokor S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fatamorgana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forma Piva S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hobotnica S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lajka S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Musaka S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quasimodo S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tičica S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 200 ft | 61 m |
| GPS: |
43.44497, 16.68116 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 4,460 total · 44/month | |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Nov 9, 2016 · Updates | |
| Admins: |
Description
Stomorica is the OG of sport climbing at Omiš.
For the most part, the rock is solid limestone with those fun features well liked for climbing. Not super steep and no tufas, but, nice runnels, pockets, rail edges, etc.
On the left side, past the notch in the skyline (and the location of a 50m rappel from that low point) are a couple of longer multi pitch routes on the far left side in the 6a grade range.
To the right of the low angle break is the single pitch sports climbing area with over 20 single pitch routes from 4b to 7b+ with most climbs at a fairly moderate level.
Nice base area with some shade trees and great views of town, the river, and the sea and beyond to the island Brac. Across the water, an old quarry (from antiquity) can be seen on the shoreline of the island. Scenic local!
Note that some anchor replacement work has been done here, but, some of the anchors would benefit from an upgrade. Also, with a fair amount of route potential, expect new routes to be added over time.
For the most part, the rock is solid limestone with those fun features well liked for climbing. Not super steep and no tufas, but, nice runnels, pockets, rail edges, etc.
On the left side, past the notch in the skyline (and the location of a 50m rappel from that low point) are a couple of longer multi pitch routes on the far left side in the 6a grade range.
To the right of the low angle break is the single pitch sports climbing area with over 20 single pitch routes from 4b to 7b+ with most climbs at a fairly moderate level.
Nice base area with some shade trees and great views of town, the river, and the sea and beyond to the island Brac. Across the water, an old quarry (from antiquity) can be seen on the shoreline of the island. Scenic local!
Note that some anchor replacement work has been done here, but, some of the anchors would benefit from an upgrade. Also, with a fair amount of route potential, expect new routes to be added over time.
Getting There
This sector is located to the west side of the Cetina River; the leftmost (western) rock formation as viewed from the ocean. As you drive NW from the bridge in downtown Omis toward Split, the crag is up on the hillside on the right.
Two popular approaches are:
1) Starting at the bridge over the river in downtown Omis, go NW on the main road toward Split about 500 meters. On your left will be a gas station, shopping mall (with a big grocery store) and the Kamp Galeb campground. A few meters after these businesses, turn right on a small side street with street signs for "Duce" and "staro selo."
Follow this narrow street uphill past hundreds of apartments and houses for 1.1km. As you ascend the hillside, the road will make a hairpin turn to the right and then another hairpin turn to the left (this second hairpin turn is 1.1km from the main road).
Turn right at the second (left turning) hairpin turn (1.1km from the main road) onto a single lane, well-graded dirt road. Drive this dirt road for 400 meters (0.4km) to a small parking area on the right in front of a rusty metal gate. If this parking spot is full, you can park in a couple pullouts by the last hairpin turn and walk the dirt road.
Looking at the rusty metal gate, you'll see a vineyard up and left. Between the vineyard and the gate is a path that leads up onto a stone wall. Go uphill on the stone wall (the vineyard will be on your immediate left; the escarpment in front of you) until you see a path that heads right. Follow any of the multitude of paths as they weave down thru brush and over stone terraces to the section of the crag you want (the multi-pitch routes [Canadair & Forma Piva]) are closer to the parking than the single pitch sport routes [Kapljica, et al]).
2) Another approach option would be to start at the gas station/grocery store/campground in Omis and follow a trail that goes basically directly uphill to the crag. This route goes behind some apartments and more or less right up to the crag. If you are staying in the campground, this might not be a bad option. If you have a car, parking in downtown Omis may be an issue and driving up the hill a better bet.
Two popular approaches are:
1) Starting at the bridge over the river in downtown Omis, go NW on the main road toward Split about 500 meters. On your left will be a gas station, shopping mall (with a big grocery store) and the Kamp Galeb campground. A few meters after these businesses, turn right on a small side street with street signs for "Duce" and "staro selo."
Follow this narrow street uphill past hundreds of apartments and houses for 1.1km. As you ascend the hillside, the road will make a hairpin turn to the right and then another hairpin turn to the left (this second hairpin turn is 1.1km from the main road).
Turn right at the second (left turning) hairpin turn (1.1km from the main road) onto a single lane, well-graded dirt road. Drive this dirt road for 400 meters (0.4km) to a small parking area on the right in front of a rusty metal gate. If this parking spot is full, you can park in a couple pullouts by the last hairpin turn and walk the dirt road.
Looking at the rusty metal gate, you'll see a vineyard up and left. Between the vineyard and the gate is a path that leads up onto a stone wall. Go uphill on the stone wall (the vineyard will be on your immediate left; the escarpment in front of you) until you see a path that heads right. Follow any of the multitude of paths as they weave down thru brush and over stone terraces to the section of the crag you want (the multi-pitch routes [Canadair & Forma Piva]) are closer to the parking than the single pitch sport routes [Kapljica, et al]).
2) Another approach option would be to start at the gas station/grocery store/campground in Omis and follow a trail that goes basically directly uphill to the crag. This route goes behind some apartments and more or less right up to the crag. If you are staying in the campground, this might not be a bad option. If you have a car, parking in downtown Omis may be an issue and driving up the hill a better bet.
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