Les Hurluberlus

The easiest line of the grand routes on Gozzi.

A six pitch route (easily done as 4) which climbs fairly good rock and also has some scratchy bits.

The first two pitches climb at fr 3 to 4 on a slab of nice rock which leads to an edge of the gully on the climber's right.

Middle pitches have good climbing interspersed with some foliage.  Take care with traverses near cactus patches as the rope could end up picking up some unpleasantness.

The last two pitches are fr 4 and 4+ and lead to the Grand Vire ledge.

Descent down the gully.  Route could be rappelled, but...much easier to hike down.

Route was re-equipped in 2014 adding a few protection points as well as doubling up the anchor bolts.

Climb should take 2-4 hours and the descent around an hour or shorter.

Route would be blistering hot in summer and the edges of spring/fall on a sunny, hot day due to the exposure and lack of anything resembling shade.

A good choice if cutting one's teeth on multi pitch or with less than hard charging partners.  Not the worst approach to the Grand Vire ledge especially if a long warm up route is desired.

On the south face, past the main gully separating the left and right grand routes (also is the descent gully), traverse to the right (east) on the hopefully not-so-scratchy trail.

Pass the Bassinet Laverdan route, then a long gully, then pass by the route Cacavellu rustitu.  The trail should pass by a thick pile of brushy and come back to the base of the crag at Les Hurluberlus at a fairly flat staging area at the base of the route.

The route starts on the flat slab triangular face just left of the long, lower angle gully separating the south face and right below the left edge of the Grand Vire ledge and below the Saga Corsica pinnacle across from the Grand Vire sector.

Allow around 45 minutes to an hour for the approach.

Bolted sports climbing with fixed anchors.