Elevation: 1,792 ft
GPS: 42.005, 8.794 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 68 total · 6/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 3, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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Description

Rocher des Gozzi has year round climbing on all aspects of this magnificent red granite mountain. Mont Gozzi rises nearly 500 vertical meters out of the countryside.

With around 75 routes, some easier short, some longer hard, and much in between, this worthy venue has a number of multi pitch classics.

Les grandes voies ( the great routes of the Gozzi): a selection of multi pitch routes with a more adventurous nature from 4 to 9 pitches. Some lower angle moderates as well as difficult steep routes. A lack of fixed gear on some routes may necessitate bringing along supplemental protection.

The bulk of Mont Gozzi is primarily south facing but with a large couloir cutting through from the east side and rising up to the northeast and bisecting the terrain into a multitude of orientations. The main areas are:

Le petite Gozzi – The “small but robust” le petite Gozzi is a shorter crag just off the approach trail which has a number of easier grade single pitch routes. North facing.

Voies de gauche – long multi pitch routes to the left of the couloir.

Voies de couloirs – routes accessed in and from the main couloir. Areas include Saga (the block across from the terrace of Grand Vire), Grand Vire (yum!), Dos au Mur (shady north facing), Figuier (the block in the middle of the upper split in the couloir) and the Grand voies du couloir (long routes on the south facing aspect of the couloir).

Grand voies de droite – right side of the south main face of Mont Gozzi. Multi pitch.

Getting There

From Aiacciu (or heading toward Aiacciu from the east), take the T22 to the D81 at Mezzavia and in 3.5km turn right to Afa on the D161.

Take a small road on the north side of the small town of Afa towards Gozzi. At a major Y, go left towards Piscia Rossa. At a big left hand bend, look for a small parking area by a fence climb-over marked as the trail to Rocher des Gozzi.

A little bit of driving around might be required to find the trailhead. Basically, find the closest paved road to Mont Gozzi which traverses east to west and look for the ladder over the fence with a sign to its right.

Approach hike takes around 50 minutes from the car park. Don’t lose the trail (those bushes are MEAN).

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