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Routes in Madrone Coves
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40 Year Old Swingers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Airbender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Backbender S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Doomtech S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Earthbender S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Errorzone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fondue or Fondon't S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairbender S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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I Am Just a Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Machu Picchu Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Madrone Strike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moss Grande S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Neighbor Totoro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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New Tricks S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Dog S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Piranha Pockets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retirement Plan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Day Error S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Bison S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Social Security S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Swampbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Waterbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 43.89267, -122.67924 |
| FA: | JDM 09/2020 (TR Forest Weaver 2000s) |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | JD Merritt on Sep 21, 2020 |
| Admins: | JD Merritt, Nate Ball |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Logging Land: CLOSED: currently leased.
Details
Please join the WACC ( willametteclimbers.org) to help us to secure permanent legal access to this area and others.
Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
Description
The steepest 5.11 here. Well-featured route characterized by hand-heel matches and huge, gymnastic reaches. The difficulty is strongly height/reach dependent, expect it to be harder and get creative if you can't span jug to jug. manage the rope well when pulling the lip. two sections separated by a no hands on a pedestal to the left
stick clip the 2nd bolt, Best to start from the undercling to the left.. Bad rock at the bottom. Mostly climbs just left of the bolt line.
Forest toproped a similar line years ago and called it 'bovine love'.
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