Lookout Point Climbing

Steep, pocketed climbing on a cluster of ryolitic tuff formations above the Signal Point boat ramp at Lookout Point reservoir. Locals have been climbing here for a good 20 years, and while it was never "secret" like a few other spots, it never really caught on due to a lack of documentation, a physical approach, and some stories of poison oak and deer ticks. The approach, crag and boulders are on logging land: please see the access concerns and related photos of signs posted at the gate. Ensure future access by following rules and minimizing impact.

As for the climbing, you can expect short routes scattered through the trees. Generally more pocketed than Smith, you'll find yourself crimping only on occasion: small open-handed dishes and pocket jugs are the norm. The routes are well suited to boulderers and a good fraction of the hardest sport climbing near Eugene is here. While there are a few longer routes and some potential for ledgy multipitching, the main attraction is roped bouldering (and actual bouldering) on short but aesthetic formations. The biggest concentration of hard routes is at the R.I.P., which is loaded with fingery anti-classics. There is alot more potential for easy and moderate routes, but they require heavy cleaning and moss removal and so haven't been on anyone's radar. If you consider short (3-6 bolt) sport routes to be worthwhile, this area could easily host as many as 60 good routes. If you don't, just drive to Smith instead of complaining.

--Please don't do anything to threaten access. Our aim in posting this on MP is to give the routes traffic and get them choss free, keep them moss free, and share some unique climbing near Eugene with the community. The logging company can and will restrict access if we don't respect their rules (clearly listed on the sign). We are working on long-term solutions. For now if you do run into loggers please be coureous and follow any instructions immediately.

--We're currently developing new routes with glueins, and replacing rusted/sub-par hardware. We've raised some money with the help of the community, and have begun a comprehensive re-bolting effort, focused mostly on the Pet Cemetary wall. Get in touch if you'd like to help with this, or similar projects at other crags. Join our google group to stay posted.

--Keep in mind that the rock quality varies hugely: across the whole spectrum from iron-hard patina to petrified mud. Bring a Boar's hair brush and do what you can to keep routes clean. Some routes are steep enough to stay dry in the rain, but make sure not to yard on wet holds, many features can and will break. Don't damage the unique holds for others. Like many tuff crags, where the rock lacks patina or waterworked and oxidized coating the rock will be softer. Avoid wire brushing once the initial cleaning of moss or dirt is done: like on sandstone, wire brushing can permanantly damage the rock and cause further erosion. Bring a helmet if you're concerned about loose rock, especially for the belay.

--With respect to grades and bolting: keep in mind that this isn't Smith. It may be tuff, but the routes are short, steep, and favor boulderers. There are more pockets and fewer knobs, crimps, and vert-slabs. Additionally, the new routes are well protected: you're not going to be as gripped as you might be on an old-school Oregon "sport" route. It's nice to simply relax and focus on movement. You might even choose to skip a clip if you feel like it. However, a stick clip is still recommended for certain routes. We're trying to align with fair sport climbing and bouldering standards more regionally and nationally, considering the sandbagging at Smith as it's own thing, and a part of climbing history. That said, feedback about quality, difficulty, cleaning, bolting, etc. is welcome: please try to be constructive, rather than "This would be X grade at Smith"...

--If you're sensitive to poison oak/ivy, (both up there) pants are recommended. Learn to recognize it, but if you stick to established trails you should be fine. Check yourself for ticks, especially during late spring/early summer.

--If you'd like to bolt here, stainless glueins are the standard. The rock is soft and porous (and the Willamette valley is rainy). If you've never placed glueins get in touch and we'll show you how.