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Fondue or Fondon't
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 40
votes
Routes in Madrone Coves
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40 Year Old Swingers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Airbender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Backbender S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Doomtech S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Earthbender S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Errorzone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fondue or Fondon't S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairbender S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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I Am Just a Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Machu Picchu Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Madrone Strike S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moss Grande S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Neighbor Totoro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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New Tricks S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Dog S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Piranha Pockets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retirement Plan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Day Error S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Bison S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Social Security S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Swampbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Waterbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 43.89267, -122.67924 |
| FA: | Jordan Palamos 2020. equipped JDM |
| Page Views: | 1,651 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | JD Merritt on Sep 21, 2020 |
| Admins: | JD Merritt, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate.
Details
Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
Description
Steep and friendly swiss cheese pockets take you off the starting ledge, which is best gained from the left. At the 5th bolt doing a long reach, stemming, or working the arete to the left allow passage for people of various technical inclinations or body types. Either you won't notice the crux or you'll be at a loss for how to proceed. Has a long draw to help with cleaning on the lower (clip your strand back in on the way down).
I can't imagine 5.10 (in the willamette valley, big qualifier) getting much more fun than this. It's cleaned up pretty well actually.
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