Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 207 total · 29/month
Shared By: RayDuCul Eckland on Sep 12, 2020
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

To keep the tradition of relating Orco to the Valley, this climb is the European cousin of “Separate Reality“, thanks to the last 10m roof pitch. The crux is pulling the roof after a pumpy, but solid section of hand jams. P1: 5.10b, P2: 5.12a

Location

Follow the trail just after the parking of Sergent and then branch off left before reaching the nose of the wall. The route is hidden by the trees from the parking. 

Protection

P1: nuts, or 3-5 finger sized cams, .3-.5. Finish p1 on 2 bolt anchor, but I’d suggest going the tat just before the roof for a better 2nd pitch belay. To protect the roof pitch conservatively bring doubles in bd #2 and #3, and a #4 for protecting the last easier section after pulling the roof. One may be able to fit a #1 somewhere in the crack as well. We reached the ground with a large margin with a single 70m cord from the anchors on top of p2, it may can be done with a single 70m.

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